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Yes, I realised you were talking about air... my advice was for that. Ecotec is 0.75bar +/- 0.2bar (that was from memory!).

Accumulator tank would help quite dramatically if you have space for one.

Not a lot other than it will fail to do it's job correctly. 2bar plus the water pressure on the other side of the diaphragm should still be within the safe working limit for it not to do any permanent damage. 1bar is a common figure but it depends on the size of the vessel among other things...

Easy way to balance 99% of systems... -Heating only turned on. -Pump on speed 3. -All TRV's on full. -Every lock-shield valve 1/4 turn open from fully shut. DO NOT MISS ANY. -Done. Hardly ever fails. Worth trying pump speed 2 afterwards if it's noisy but with 16 rad's I'd expect you to need...

They rely on the outlet pipe having a continuous fall throughout the entire length. Even a slight incline can stop it. An open end too, can't be submerged.

If you can be bothered then do it all 22mm then. The bore of the valve is probably not much more than 15mm anyway in reality.

15mm should be fine. 22mm would mean unsoldering joints etc and especially annoying to do on painted pipes! You will struggle to find a 15mm bypass though... most I see up size to 22mm for a short section either side of the valve.

Close all upstairs radiator valves and then drain from the boiler. 90% of the water will stay in (downstairs won't drain at all) and you won't need to re-dose with inhibitor. Worcester will NOT invalidate warranty for no auto-bypass... A manual bypass is not ideal but not enough to invalidate...

Just install an eco shower head or a flow limiter to the existing one. Same for taps... Aerators and flow limiters. At least if you can't change the bad habits of time you can reduce dramatically the amount of water being consumed per minute!

Are you aware that leaving the condensate trap incorrectly fitted or without sufficient water in it could cause carbon monoxide to enter your house? It is not a DIY job to remove and play with.

Even if you can bypass the mod air flow stat with a Hive (which clearly you can if the PT Plus is working), you needed a single channel receiver, not dual channel. That's so you can use the terminal 1 (common) and switch it across terminal 3 (demand). If you try put 240v down it you will blow...

I bet it was 2 zones combined into one...

So exactly as I said then? What good is it to spray lubricant on the dry side? If lubricant could get in then water could get out.

It'll help for a few days before it gets stuck again. It's the part of the spindle in the water that goes stiff.

Probably a stiff spindle. The head might be ok.

All curved radiators are machine curved from what I've come across. Some are just better than others. The price is ridiculous by the way.

Yep, that's lead..

I looked more closely at your image now I'm home. Remove the current brown link wire. Now link L and 1 only in one terminal. Make safe the blue sleeved wire in a separate terminal. Done.

Because the only difference is the reciever has 2 connections and 2 outputs instead of 1. The HW one can simply be left not used. There's no price difference between them and no detriment to the CH by using the wrong reciever.

How's it last to market when it had HW control over a year before Nest did? :ROFLMAO:. Hive is great, had it a while. You CAN use dual channel if you don't want to send it back, just leave the HW connection with no wire to it. Your app will show HW control but just leave it set to off and it...