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Please call in a professional, you NEED the cylinder thermostat.

Why not hard wire the nest properly, back to it's own power supply that is built into the heatlink, as it was designed?

It's like a lighthouse light, to stop cars driving into the house.

Some interesting stuff there! Shame it's not new in box. Some of that will be 75+ years old

Probably just the rope seal on the door, if it has re-wireable fuses (unlikely at 200A) there will also be an asbestos flash guard inside the holder. I assume this unit is not in use any more but if the asbestos is removed the unit must no be put back into electrical service.

The tingly parts are behind shields that would require a tool to remove, the unit can't be opened when switched on. Quite safe to renew the fuses.

There must be hundreds of these still in service, very rugged and well made. I wouldn't re-install one though. However having seen the quality of a number of the modern replacements I know what I'd rather rely on.

Then throw away all the thermally damaged parts and replace them. If the plug pins were hot replace the plug too. If the wall socket was hot also replace that. 3KW is a heavy load, very few modern extension leads are suitable for safely carrying 3KW. For some reason most are now only rated for...

Are all the off peak circuits on at the fusebox? I assume you left them on overnight to charge?!

Well the installation is certainly s***.

Has it ever worked? Are the other storage heaters working? Thermal cutout might have tripped if it has ever been covered with clothes etc.

I allow just enough that each conductor can reach any possible accessory terminal location in the box.

Without my glasses on it looked like the installer had laid an egg under the floorboards.

Look at Honeywell for a reliable opentherm roomstat. I would recommend changing the address on the salus from the factory default to prevent nuisance operation in case any of your neighbours have a salus stat.

If you are connecting such heavy loads that are likely to risk blowing the cutout fuse you should be contacting the DNO asking for permission before connecting the large loads to the supply, and if the loads exceed the current supply capacity a supply upgrade will be needed.

As your boiler supports opentherm, an opentherm thermostat would have been a better choice. The stat wires into block X2 after removing the link between 1 and 4.

All that is rather rough and would not comply with BS7671 for a number of different reasons. Probably not 'dangerous' but certainly not an acceptable installation, whether the pipes/sink were there or not.

Many users get confused with these. It is best to do a reset to clear everything, then follow through all of the user guide to set them up again. After that just leave them alone. They are designed to operate the heating in a controlled way that prevents wasting energy by overshooting, so they...

We've been using those D clips for a long while, not noticed any problems with them. No idea how they would stand up in a fire though, as the larger ones are rather flimsy.

In a fire I'd be more worried about the toxic smoke coming from dado trunking and the cables within than if it fell down the wall a bit. Certainly a good idea to keep everything properly supported through escape routes during a fire. We overloaded a small length of bell wire recently, the large...