Search results

Down South there is a lot of money to be made, no idea about up North, less I imagine but the cost of living is also less. The thing that concerns me about a career changer like yourself is that I believe you will be unrealistic in term of the time it takes to become competent. I have always...

Overall I dot and dab. It takes me a day to dot and dab and re skim the ceiling in an average bathroom and I get the walls absolutely perfect, so a 600 x 300 tile would be no problem at all. The tiling can be done the same day too, a bonding and finish coat takes several weeks to dry, not an...

Hmmm, no one has any further input? I'm really keen to get some advice on this. I'm gonna have to try some other forums

Have you tried it with a standard holesaw? I'm a little worried about the enamel.

What's the best way to drill a Pressed steel bath? I have a standard Bette bath that needs a hole cutting out for a single lever tap.

The shower should have been replaced. it would've been about £70 for a new bar style valve, you could've got the pipe work done, tiled then fitted the valve after tiling. Now you are stuffed.

I tend to have the tiles flush with the top of the bath and silicone the joint.

silicone around the pipe and cable, these electric shower units are often designed to have a slight gap behind them so water could potentially get in there

I don't use any type of paste on system anymore, only the sheet membrane, I imagine the granfix will be similar to th Bal WP1

I can't understand some customers. they spend a lot of money on a wet room and put awful commercial grade stone in, the whole job just looks wrong. Instead of those stud shower walls, it should have glass, I just don't get the decisions some customers make. ...as for the OP's post, it...

Not necessarily. The main thing to consider is the minimum /maximum compensation of your shower door/screen. Having 15mm gaps is no good at all, I siggest that it needs to be re done. This is part of the reason I feel that highly porous tilebacker boards like Hardibacker and Aquapanel...

Mapei Kerapoxy. It takes a while to set (overnight) but gives a decent amount of working time. I keep a pot of Kerapoxy Jasmine in the van all the time and use it as a filler for travertine, works well.

What colour are the tiles? I would take one look at the tiles and tell you if they need sealing or not. Often they do not. Lithofin are one of the best manufacturers. Porcelain has microscpoic holes and apparently can stain, I've not seen it before and very rarely seal the product

Find a stockistr of Schluter products:- http://www.schluter.co.uk/tile_trim.aspx

A better product to build your bath panel out of is a Tile backer board like Aquapanel or hardibacker (12mm) A good way of creating your access panel is by using a product called Schluter Rema It's better to use a cement based adhesive 100% of the time, I'm not a huge fan of ready mixed.

There's something very wrong if you're getting 10 minutes pot life out of your adhesive......yes, that can happen during a Hot summer, not a day like today though. I was using toppfix rapidset flexy today, the Pot life was an hour. Tile round your window (or whatever) first, then apply the...

Oh yeah, the best glitter grout is the Mapei, if you ever need to use it again :lol:

Elbow grease, be careful about putting chemicals on. The white abrasive cloths are a must. Epoxy is an absolute nightmare to deal with on mosaics, it's vital that it is all cleaned off during application. I recently did about 10m of bisazza mosaics, in two rooms, depiote my best efforts...

Try these people:- http://www.solidity.co.uk/index.htm I had some polished travertine done recently and it came to £150 for three pieces, 200mm x 800mm (2 of) and a window board about 1m x 150mm

Yes, 300mm square and above is considered large format, difficult for the air to get behind the tile to dry the adhesive + weight issues associated with large tile- tend to be thicker + thicker adhesive bed.