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You'll probably not find an awful lot of Tilers that could Quote the weight limits for every single substrate, plasterers knowing anything about weight limits- very unlikely. I would tile it a good few days after dry (skim has lightened) but I would pop my moisture detector on first.

Old render is one of the best surfaces to tile onto, especially when it's nice and flat, fill the odd bits here and there with a cement based tile adhesive, the same one you use for the tiling. Prime walls first, I would use an APD

Read between the lines Focus, we're not stupid, I would rather give my money to a local Beggar than use your blatantly advertised Glass company. Have a nice day now :D

I disagree with the use of Aquapanel in this instance. It's a horizontal shelf with a shower above it. I would either use a waterproof tilebacker board such as Wedi, marmox etc with the joints taped with the specific waterproof tape or Plasterboard the area and then tank it. Whatever you...

Dow Corning 78Spam

I have fitted multiple and have 2 x Grohtherm wireless showers in my own house, one is supplying a Bath and the other a shower. These showers beat anything that Aqualisa make by a long way. They have three family buttons to store not only each members temp but pressure also. They have many...

Homelux. £35 for 5m2 at Topps, use the same single part for adhering it to the walls as you use for the main tiling, cut a section of the matting for your internal corner(s)

You'll need a few cutters if you're getting into tiling, I have a smallish TS for my day to day cuitting, a TX for larger tiles and high end porcelain or any repetative 45 degree cuts , a smallish wet cutter for ceramic, porc and some stone and finally a DW200 LPS radial for big stone jobs...

I disagree and suggest that the Trevi Therm is the better valve. Better, Bigger inlets- 3/4" Female irons, instead of 15mm bent push fits on most Aqualisa's. Brass bodied on the Therm compared to Aqualisa being a Plastic valve. If you do go for the Aqualisa you will be gobsmacked how light it is...

Bal have only recently changed the spec advising that SBR can be used on plaster with cement based adhesive. Personally I prefer APD, SBR is just a deluxe PVA, I don't use it

UFH in the wet dec area will be fine. Remember if it's the extruded foam marmox then minimum of 50mm x 50mm mosaic tiles required to avoid point loading.

Batten and board out between joists then, 2 hours work max, which is nothing when you consider how labour intensive a wet room is.

Marmox Showerstone, although I have never come across a house that has joists level enough to lay straight onto. It is always essential to board out between joists, often having the boarding sticking out above joists and even having to bed these formers in rapidset flexy to get them pewrfectly...

I often use 3mm spacers especially on tiles 600 x 300 + and in particular when lining up wall and floor tile grout joints. Also I use a particular type of spacer that doesn't snap, so it can be pulled out without breaking with the extra weight of a larger tile

My local B&Q sells Mapei, saw it the other week, had a quick scan of the back of the pack and it was a C2 adhesive so suitable for Porc.

Loving your work Dean!

I have many pictures of how this proccess is done. It's basically a standard wet room construction, there's so many different types available now. Give me a shout if you need more pics......time for ZZZZzzzzzzzz for me, I'm up at 6am It's not an easy job for a DIYer if I'm being truthful...

This gives you a better idea. I suggest that you glue and screw some thicker sections of board to the outside of the tray area, then tank them, then you're ready to tile. http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g304/bathstyle/019.jpg

Off the top of my head, it is 22mm thick foam board with a cement sheet coating, it's fully waterproof. Edit, this one is curved:- http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g304/bathstyle/003.jpg

I would still go with Marmox, the showerlay's can be cut to suit 45 deg walls. I did one not so long ago, 30 degree wet room with a curved wall, I don't tend to have little block upstands though, just a glass screen