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Me too - I ain't no plumber but when I need copper tube I go for Yorkshire - I'm only doing this plumbing in this house once!!! I was also sad enough to enter their text comp to win a T-shirt. Different one April May & June. My fave is the one that says "Bend me shape me anyway you want me"...

PVA the lot (as in the bits behind where the skirting was, not the entire wall!) and throw some bonding plaster in the big holes to fill them, leaving it about 2mm below the level of the existing finish on the main wall. Then PVA again, overlapping on to the existing wall slightly and skim this...

:lol: LOL, sorry Mr Free. Just thought I'd give a basic reasoning into why he should try and get all the little jobs done at the same time. Just trying to be helpful and save Chopster a few readies (and his plasterer a return trip when he could potentially be earning a bit more on another job)...

Afternoon all, Been to price up a job (a nice big job too!). It's ideal, it's a total refurb on a room by room basis so each room will be emptied of furniture and fittings before I turn up to plaster (assuming I get the job). I also don't need to worry about sheeting up which is ace...

Cementing it into where? A lawn or a patio? Either way I guess it's the same sort of procedure. You'll have to dig out a hole not quite as deep as the spike, width I guess however wide you want it and depending on what ground the hole is in I guess. Insert spike into ground below and make...

Right, Neutrals into the N terminal, all together (EXCEPT the black one with a red sleeve). The Switched Live (that's the black one with the red sleeve) into the L terminal. All three Earth conductors into the E terminal (don't forget to sleeve them if you've taken the sleeving off). Now, in...

Shouldn't do. You just need to make sure you put enough coats on to ensure nothing shows through. regards fred.

Then I'd skim it rather than patching it. I'd probably patch the hollows with bonding first and then skim the whole wall. If you're removing paper and wishing to paint then I'd strongly recommend lining paper before painting. If you paint over a previously papered wall the old paste residue...

I'd charge £100 for it. I'd apply Bond It (because I assume it's a vinyl finish paint on it) the night before and skim the following day. I'd only be there for around two to three hours but it's the fact that I'd be unlikely to fit any other work in on the same day (unless another similar small...

Better to fill with a sand and cement mix I think. Does the hole go right through from inside to out? Mix 3 parts sand to 1 part cement (mix together thoroughly before adding water) and then slowly add small amounts of water while mixing. Once set you'll be able to drill into it and...

Not at all mate. You're doing it right. Youwant it nice and flat and smooth but not so polished it's like glass. There are some plasterers who polish it 'til it's like a mirror because it looks good when bare. Yes, it might look doog bare but it'll look poo when painted because the paint won't...

Nooooooooooooooooo! Don't PVA it! Water down the first coat of paint - half paint half water. If you PVA it you'll get adhesion problems and the paint won't take to the plaster very well. After this first coat you can paint with two coats of emulsion as usual. Regards Fred

Yes, you can paint fresh plaster once dry. A mist coat of half water half paint for the first coat and then two coats of emulsion as usual. You may see some imperfections in the plasterwork once the mist coat is up. Fill with fine filler and lightly sand. then mist the patches and paint the...

For one room? Jeez! And £570 for lining! Again, one room? If that really i just for one room personally I'd tell him to stuff it. Find out how much he charges for a day and just pay him for the days he's done and tell him to get lost!

Generally the higher the voltage and the higher the Ah the better the battery. As mentioned previously too, the Li Ion batteries are better. Regards Fred

Hi banana, No PVA, just a wetting down. Probably no need for a full on hose down - as long as the bricks are damp then you'll be fine but a spraygun may not get enough water on the wall. You'll find the blockwork sucks the water in rapidly. You basically wat it so that it's not sucking it in...

Hi Ste, As Brist says, no need to remove all the old plaster, only the loose bits. This can then be kimmed. Are you re-tiling the all? If so, rather than re-skimming you could probably just patch the areas that have come away. If painting or papering though then definately re-skim the lot...

As Brist says, it's difficult to see. However, one thing I would say is that it's very rare for a plasterer to leave an absolutely perfect finish. Generally there will always be blemishes here and there. Unless your plasterer is totally crap a freshly plastered wall will always look...

Hey Brist, I guess that means, like me, you're not a proper plasterer then either! How's business going? Is it picking up? Regards Fred

But I'm no convinced he's trying to actually wind me up with bullsh1t. I think he actualy believes his own bullsh1t! Regards Fred