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Hi guys - is anyone able to confirm if my config is correct? As I havent done anything yet :) but now that I am in lockdown - i thought I should actually finish the job!

Hi I've decided to do this myself...in prep for the install, does the below look correct in terms of config? The door at the front is the only one with a door contact facing the road - the other doors are in the back garden so have left PIRs facing then which I assume is okay? Picture removed

Hi all I have a quick question... I am looking at ordering some made to measure blinds and I have a square (U shaped) bay window In all the guides I read it says to take into account the blind roller space and add the handle to this amount... But if the amount my handle comes out is less...

Ah - is that easy to connect? and is that what normally one would do with the live siren?

Is there a way to not use the bell box battery and use a standalone one instead like this one? https://map-security.com/pyronix-3mm-led-kit-for-enforcer-siren.html

To be honest I guess that was my key concern - support if something goes wrong! Different question - does the siren bell come with the led lights as standard? As I was told to purchase a separate set of led lights for the real siren and dummy ... but not sure if that is already standard on the...

Hi Handymanjo, Sorry, the system itself would cost me in total of £525 including the fuse spur fitted... whilst if I had someone supply and fit (including the fuse spur) it would cost me £750 inc VAT (hence the £225 to install charge)...although this does include 1 year warranty on the fitting...

Hi all A question I am sure has been asked many times before...I am looking at installing an enforcer system with 8 PIRs and was debating doing a self install vs someone who has done it before. What is everyone's opinion on this? In terms of costings, I have found someone who would cost £225...

Yep that’s exactly the same as mine. Easy swap over - you just swap the outer casing that you’ve taken off. Honestly really that easy.

Well when I tried turning the mains on the fuse kept tripping. Not sure if that makes a difference? Obviously bit worried if the electrician has just done a bodge job

There was a slight nick and clearly something exposed which is why it short circuited. But he had checked the wire itself and was happy with it all before placing a sleeve. He actually didn’t seem that fussed with it and just felt it was touching metal which is why it just needed to be covered...

Not sure what more to do? The guy tested the wire and everything was working... I don’t think the copper had been damaged but he said because it touched metal it would have shorted...but was happy with the wire itself Am I missing something?

Ah dammit! How do I know which one to get then?

Thanks @stem - that means the Hive Active heating product is single channel (as opposed to the one with hot water which is dual?)

Hi @stem - thanks for clarifying this - i thought i was going a little bit crazy! in that case, what i have as a connection in place should really be a simple remove and replace (as @deanoc mentioned previously).

all sorted. had a sparky come over and have a look. fortunately the wire was fine, some of the casing had been exposed so he covered it with an outer tube and everything worked :) thanks for the help!

Thanks Dean - I have a Greenstar Combi Boiler but I'm confused where the hot water part is coming from? I would have thought we'd have the same model...never is that easy is it! On this link (WR1 = Drayton) (http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/Digistat1RFUIGuide.pdf) it...

Sorry - I meant how do I check if it is damaged? Most of it is still covered in red. I’ve just left that socket out but electrics elsewhere in the house is working

Is there a way to check whether the wire is completely gone? What would I need to do to fix it as I might just seek a professional!

Thanks Dean, Did yours look like below then?