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Spike, I had thought much the same....i am in the process of first fix at the mo, units arent going in yet but i do have an electrician to inspect at various stages of installation. I just like to get things right first time if you know what i mean! - that way it avoids re-work dont it? :lol:

Yeah, i thought it would be down to preference..... Is there any harm in "effectively" having the appliance double fused at the plug and the DP switch?? I guess using single unswitched sockets means i dont have to cut the ole plug off and warranty wise, stays in tact. Just wanna make...

Hi all..........quick question for those in the know........... Planning out wiring for my kitchen and just wanted to check something.... I plan on having under counter integrated appliances and controlling them with 13a DP switches above the worktop. Question is: Below the worktop...

Oh, and thanks Ericmark - i know they are cheap flea-bay ones but its not like they are gonna be hammered every day like the pro's. If they last the job out then thats all i need really i guess.......although if better quality ones are to be had elswhere for not much more i'd like to know!

For those who read this and have a similar problem .............. I spoke to the manufacturer (Baumatic) and they advised me to keep the dishwasher legs on their lowest setting (overall height 820mm) and build a level plinth to make up the required distance. In my case it means a plint of...

Must say im not a huge fan of using blocs - i know the join would be "accessible" by removing the double socket plate so i COULD use blocs i suppose........ I WOULD however prefer the join to be as good as possible hence the "crimp/heatshrink" approach - once its done its the best way ive...

The "job" im planning is in conjuction with a new CU - been told its a Crabtree with RCBO's to be installed so im assuming that the circuit will be sufficiently protected by this? The legs that come down the wall are sheathed in a PVC oval conduit which terminates directly above the gang box...

Howdy folks! After having alot of good advice from here (thanks to all), i AGAIN wanted assistance - well advice really. Im planning to extend into a ring to include for additional sockets/FCU's. The existing legs run from the ceiling of a flat roof so access is a bit of a problem to rip...

Cheers Liam. Thanks everyone for the advice etc - now after all that - do you think i should get some one in to do it :lol: Just kiddin - i will do as you said Liam - one upside is that i get to keep that plug that i paid for on the bloody cooker! - cheapskate arent i! Dont fancy those...

I have just checked the hob wiring instructions - load on the backplate says 0.6w however it does say in the manual that should be wired to a 3a plug (or i suppose a FCU with 3a in it) Presuming this means that i cant hardwire it using a double outlet plate anyway as fuse size would be too...

and who said camping wasnt fun........................... :o :lol:

Liam HOLY COW - I FORGOT ABOUT MY HOOD!!!!!!!! - nah, i think ive got that one covered....there is a double capable of a spur near the hob for that so i was going to spur off it for a FCU for the extractor and use manufacturers recommended fuse size for that. BAN - love the dolls house...

Thanks Liam - nice and straightforward then eh? :lol: What i would like to do if possible is to install the 45a CCU so i dont have to change it at all in future - sounds like a good idea thinking about it! I suppose my only concern was having something with a fused plug on it that was...

OK OK OK - calm down Col!!! :lol: Hotpoint told me that they recommend or advise hardwiring even though the cooker is plug and play on 13a plug. I agree that your double socket method BEHIND the cooker is the easiest way and then it doesnt matter if the hob needed a "beeping" 13a fuse on...

A SPANNER IN THE WORKS! - will have to look at the hob to see what it says. Its a gas hob so just needs power for the auto ignition. But, if it is rated at 3a, i guess as the load for the cooker is close to that, the hob will take it over 13a on an FCU. Im pretty sure from recollection...

Sounds to me like my best bet is to do what you have said BAN, that way i dont have to butcher my lovely new base units. :D I know that the double socket method would mean i dont have to cut plugs off etc but it does mean that, should i want to hardwire into a CCU in future for a higher...

Ban, i hope im understanding you right...... Use a 45a CCU at worktop (installing this initially will avoid future hassle swapping FCU in future) Wire my 2800 rated cooker and gas hob into double outlet plate behind the cooker using 6mm for the load to the 45a CCU. Fuse it down at the...

Ahhh - right - i follow you now! :oops: Mind you, i actually dont mind having the FCU as it would allow me to isolate the cooker/hob without doing so at the CU - call me crazy but thats fine by me as it will allow me to install a deeper gang box ready for a 45a switch if i need it in...

BAS, is that in conjuction with using the 13a FCU? - im having a new CU put in shortly (see my other posts) following advice i have had here before. I take it if the 6mm cooker run is on its own radial, i only need an RCBO to cope with my current proposed load - however would it do any harm...

Thats true enough! - i have spoken to Hotpoint who ake the oven and although it comes with a flex and plug fitted, they said they recommend hardwiring. They also said that they know this means either replacing the original flex or cutting off the plug and said as long as its installed...