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We live in an old house and the front door is badly fitted and it and the frame are going rotten and need replacement. I don't really like composite doors and I feel they really don't match the age of the house. However, my wife insists on one. What really puts me off is the requirement for a...

Yes I will getting the SE in next year to give final specs etc and yes it will include the floor loading. Also, the ceiling below has been boarded & skimmed over some years ago whilst it was sagging - I have no idea how this will affect things whilst correcting the sag.

ok, next question - the floor / ceiling in question has sagged over the years (200 years to be exact). So when strapping it to the new RSJ - do I leave the sagging as is ? and simply strap it up where it sits ? or correct the sagging (using some acrow props underneath maybe) and thus push it up...

Yeah, the ceiling joists are only 3x2 and amazingly the two lofts have always been used as rooms since the 1800s. I'm putting steels in because the dormer windows installed by the previous owner 15 years ago are not supported very well so I am taking the chance to strengthen the floor / ceiling...

Thanks all - those suggestions look like just the job - I just need to get some timber into the RSJ and then use an appropriate strap to bring them together as suggested. Good stuff - thank you.

Its the floor when you're in the loft and its the ceiling when you're in the room below ;)

ok, I am having an RSJ installed (supported each end on walls) in my loft so I thought this might be a chance to strengthen the existing understrength floor joists them by attaching them to the new RSJ which will sit literally 1 or 2 mm above the joists. I cannot disturb the ceiling that the...

Replace the roof with a new lightweight tiled one without any changes to supporting structures. Plenty of firms around offering this now.

Surely dot and dabbed TLB is easiest ? but not necessarily the cheapest

No, just 100mm Rockwool RW3

Use Rockwool RW3 - this is a good sound insulator and has good thermal properies too. As to the question on whether you actually need to thermally insulate I would say yes - this gives you greater control over temperatures in each room - ie you are not heating the room above etc

I used Gyproc Thermaline 50mm insulation backed plasterboard in our previous 1880s house on the inside of all internal walls. Worked very well, house heated up quickly and was also a good soundproofer.

Pump speed ? - maybe its running too fast ?

Hive doesn't control your hot water temp - it just schedules when your boiler can heat it.

Looks bowed to me - I would replace

To insulate my house I used 50mm insulation backed plasterboard from British Gypsum. They were secured directly to the walls via dot and dab.

I used 100mm Rockwool RW3 - top stuff and is easily cut with a bread knife for installation. I didn't lift all boards and was able to slide the insulation under 3 or 4 boards width.

As stated really, our freezer recently defrosted itself so we had to chuck everything out. We left it empty for a couple of weeks whilst we were on holiday and after getting a handy freezer thermometer it seemed to behave itself. However, I have looked at the readings every morning and it is...

Well, we dont want to remove anything if possible :). However, I think the only way to get decent look at it is to remove a couple of boards and then maybe replace the hearth etc. This room is also the only ground floor room with joists & boards so maybe its worth checking out the air vents etc...

Hi, I have just noticed that that we appear to have some damp around the edges of a hearth in our sitting room. I am quite worried about it and want to sort it asap. Any ideas whats going on here and what to do next ?