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I need to tile a solid wall in a bathroom but am rather confused as to how to fix the vertical and horizontal battens accurately. Any advice would be very welcome. Cheers. :wink:

Tamz, this makes a lot of sense. What I forgot to mention was that the mains supply to the flat and, hence, to the combi, is via a ¾ inch steel pipe. Prior to the connection to the combi there is a steel to copper adapter followed by a 22/15 reducer. Also the combi does not deliver anything like...

Because if the pipes had both been run in 22mm in the first place, ie correctly, there would have been a better flow available at the mixer than by installing a restrictive 22mm valve on the cold supply. If, as you say, the council show no concern (default mode? :) ) then I will fit the valve.

No, they are not the other way, they are as I have described them, with the cold having twice the flowrate of the hot. I take the point about a PRV, though. I am just trying to establish whether with this installation, if not fit-for-purpose, the council have an obligation to replace the said...

My friend has asked me to install a bath/shower mixer in his council flat. The flowrate to the bath taps for the cold is twice that of the hot and I am want to avoid problems the unbalanced supplies will cause re using the mixer. It would be possible to fit a service valve on the cold supply...

In anycase, why should your attitude to home insurance be any different to that of car insurance? A previous illuminating thread .

I posted this originally: It looks like the this item is now £175 + vat at Europarts. But GSF have something very similar. I do not recall there being an issue between injection or carburettor versions, though. I have modified my earlier post as the clicky did not work properly. This is...

I have checked an ordinary 22mm compression stopvalve against the said Pegler and note that a piece of 22mm pipe will insert 16mm into the comp fitting but only 14mm into the Pegler. Would this difference give rise to problems when trying to fit the 3/4 inch albeit with a 3/4 inch olive...

Having a real problem in trying to fit a 22mm Pegler service valve to ¾ inch metric copper pipe...even with a ¾ inch olive. Is there some reason that this type of valve will not tighten on pipe with a 3/4 olive? Thanks for any help. :wink:

The plumbers' grease merchants, of course. :wink: Thanks alot, Elite.

A leak has occurred on one of the joints of a plastic flushpipe from high-level cistern. I have obtained an identical piece to the defective section but I am not clear on how to dismantle the existing pieces. Should any heat be used when making the new joint? Is it best to use plumbers’ grease...

I should have said that the reason for wishing to remove this section is that a small chip in the laminate has occurred right on the edge of the worktop. Fortunately there is about 1 – 2 cm overlap from the upright of the fitted unit, so there is sufficient material to make a cut. Xerxes...

I wish to cut off a thin section (about 0.5 – 1 cm) of the end of a worktop. The worktop is fitted in place and supports a kitchen sink so it is not practical to remove it from this position. The material is chipboard with a laminate surface. What is the best way to make this cut in situ with a...

I am unable to properly seal the WC flush pipe where it connects to a high-level cistern. The siphon holds the water in the cistern perfectly but upon flushing a fair bit of water runs down the flushpipe. I have tried replacing the rubber washer but this makes no difference. Any recommendations...

Thanks, chaps. Here's a vaguely similar piccy www.tapstore.com/acatalog/copy_of_Minimalist_Bottle_Trap.html

I have got a leaking bottle-trap. It is stainless-steel and the leak is coming from the waste section that enters the trap. Any ideas as to how I can put a stop to this, please? Thank for any advice. :wink:

Thanks very much, John. Good information. :wink:

Yes, John, I think the cylinder must be designed for Economy 7 usage. What confuses me, though, is that it has not been wired up for this type of set-up ie as you describe with a 2-way switch etc. The existing connection comes off of a 16amp mcb at the CU. It then runs to a timer (next to the...

I understand that, JohnD. What I have here is a cylinder designed to have two 14" elements. The prevailing wiring is only sufficient to supply the upper element so the performance has always been rather limited. For some reason the new element is even less effective than the old and I am...

I have decided to try to resolve the operational problems on this thread in order to avoid confusion and the need for repetition. Having replaced the heater element in the HW cylinder there are a couple of issues. Firstly, though the replacement element is a 14" 3kw, ie exactly the same as...