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Answered numerous times. Here's one a quick search threw up: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=284651#284651

Some techno-wizkid should find his computer details and spam him back :x

When you say "regulation compliant" - what regulations are you refering to?

Hi, Can I ask how you got on with the Danish Oil on the veneered doors, as I'm in the same position - I have a couple of Oak veneered shaker style doors (glazed) that I need to finish. The instructions state the same - not recommended for oil or wax finishing, and no water based finishes. I'd...

Mortice sashlock central - provides a door handle and latching facility, then mortice deadlocks top and bottom (1/3 up, 1/3 down). All 3 could be keyed-alike, so 1 key opens everything. More secure than any MPT mechanism, and your insurance company will be your new best friend.

As above - just ensure your mortice locks conform to British Standards, and forget about the multipoint. You could always fit extra mortice deadlocks to beef-up the door security.

Don't need one :wink:

Don't be fooled by the UPVC salesman, who'll have you believing a plastic door, with its multi-point locking mechanism, with it's hardened hooks etc. etc. is more secure than fort knox. Wooden door every time, and follow the advice above on hardware.

After a little more thought, a further option - but this is dependant on the available depth of the cupboard. Create a double door cupboard (not hidden), and create a false back to this that opens to provide access to an equipment space. Another version would be to create the cupboard full...

The problem you will have is hiding the lines of the door, if the rest of the wall is painted with no pattern to disrupt the lines. If you can't hide the lines of the door, then you'll have to consider covering them. A picture/mirror have been mentioned above, but what about a radiator/cover...

The only way I've seen doors hidden (sucessfully) is behind panelling, as the vertical lines of the panels break-up the obvious lines of a door.

Nothing to stop you splicing in some timber to fill the mortices, then retro-fitting a new mechanism. Just ensure you don't purchase a mechanism that's too deep (the case), otherwise you could find yourself drilling into the glazing. Have a chat with these guys. Good choice of mechanisms...

Sound advice above. Also worth removing the keeps from the frame and replacing one-by-one, testing the locking process after each replacement, to help identify which is fouling.

The correct way would be to strip the cylinder down, reset the cam, then put it back together again. Alternatively, you can insert keys into both sides of the cylinder and try to "force" the cam around. Personally, I'd just stick a new cylinder in. With regards to UPVC door security - my...

The lock is indeed obsolete with no alternative (according to one of my catalogues). I've attached a link to the relevant catalogue for you to confirm sizes etc. You'll need to view pages 42-43. http://duffells.clikhost.co.uk/new_cat/ If you don't want to go down the insurance route, you...

The cam (black bit in the middle of the cylinder that rotates) has slipped out of position. With the key withdrawn, and the cylinder held vertically, it should be at 5 or 7 o'clock (narrow section towards the bottom). I'm guessing it's more like 11 or 1 o'clock. Usually occurs when a key is...

Not enough information provided, and a photo always helps. Like asking to identify a car thats parked on your mums drive. Its got 4 wheels, doors, its blue in colour, and the key says Ford. It could be any of a number of models. A photo would identify it almost immediately. Even a line...

Can you take a phot of the mechanism - should help to identify it. You don't say why your replacing it - faulty?

Scratcher - some interesting views in your post. I have to agree with the membership situation (MLA/ICL etc.), as the majority are money making exercises. However, in my opinion there is a need for non-destructive entry techniques, in particular with warrant work. I think it presents a more...

Suggestions have been asked for, and provided. There's no mention of how many boards there are to do, and whether the boards have yet been fitted. The decision on which route to take will depend on the OP's skill level, available money/tools/time, and whether a DIY or professional finish is...