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If the PIR captures the person upon opening the final, then it will not be an issue. However, the issue was first noticed when a customer set their system, left the premises and the lock on the final door was not properly latched. The door crept open sounding the alarm, but there was no report...

Okay, yes that's the most recent portal. It depends how big the firmware jump is re the settings, but from 1.44 to 1.56, it will likely default. The only way to store the config for restoring is with Honeywell RSS. You're best with V1.56, as the bug prior to 1.53 causes a 'final zone only'...

That sounds like it's faulty. See the video of good and bad V4.10/V4.11 (this is E080-10, but the firmware boot process is the same) below. Can you return it to the supplier? You really want V4.14 for Flex, as it has a new bootloader that boots within a few seconds and the firmware/hardware...

What is the module bus LED doing and what firmware version or date code is on the module?

The 1.44 will work, but for self monitoring there are bugs prior to V1.53. V1.56 is the most recent. The panel can be upgraded with a ramp flash lead or a cheap USB-TTL converter. PM me if you want to go down that path. The RF portal should be CO79 or CO79-2. Version 3.00 is the most recent...

You'll need to work out the combined current consumption, as many smaller panels may not be able to drive both sirens if they don't support SAB mode. Panels with a robust PSU like the Galaxy Dimension would be capable but perhaps a bit overkill for the premises.

You don't even need to say it three times. :) OP, you can add the vmod module from SelfMon Ltd. The module connects to the Galaxy bus and provides app access and secure alarm reporting over sms, push, voice, email, Etc. https://www.selfmon.uk/vrio-modules The module can also be integrated...

Yes, the latest firmware is V3.52, so it's worth updating to that. Note that the upgrade wipes the settings. I'll PM you.

Hi, yes, I developed the selfmon virtualisation module (vmod). It virtualises various panel devices and provides an mqtt client that will publish into your home assistant broker. You can get more info in the selfmon Facebook group.

Enter menu 23. This will display the version of the panel firmware. The CP046 touchscreen is a bit gimmicky. You'd be better with the mqtt keypad in home assistant, but understand that's a bit more of an undertaking to install and set up.

Wireless devices are manufacturer specific, so you'd need to change sensors if changing panel to a different make. It may be that your sensors are very old anyway. Post a picture and someone may be able to guide you on the best route forward.

The system will lock out the keypad for a period of time if you repeatedly enter a wrong code. If you have a correct user or master code, entering it on every 5th attempt or so will stop the locking out. I've sent you a pm on getting back up and running.

You need the engineers code to reset the faults. The alarm didn't sound when you opened the sensors, as it wasn't set. It just logged the errors, so you need to reset these with the engineer code. The label you are reading is for the keypad. You will also have a large grey metal case which is...

You can disable line volts check if no pstn is connected. Menu 56.1.10. Unused zones can also be programmed as 'spare' in menu 52. Any zone programmed as 'spare' is ignored by the system.

Engineering menu 51.17.Load Defaults

Okay, so a beep means the max reader is set up on the bus. Was this a new non ADT panel and did you start from a clean set of defaults? If you have Ethernet, pm me and I can connect with rss and check your settings.

Is it a definitely a prox reader CP038 / CP051 and not a CP037 / CP050 ?

For decent automation possibilities you'll want a system that has MQTT capability - this opens up the Comms interface with the panel. Neither Texecom or Honeywell have this natively, but someone has written a software bridge for Texecom and SelfMon Ltd (my company) have designed a hardware...

Hi, I think you posted on my profile. I didn't receive a notification for that. I wouldn't bother trying to adjust the 16+ board. It's likely a cap has dried out and caused the voltage regulation to go off. If you really wanted, you could start replacing caps or testing with an ESR meter, but...

I've PM'd you with some info.