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And if you have dimmers come back for more advice.

Check water inlet filter for blockages. Remember to isolate electric & water supply. As suggested before, check showerhead. Mine, as is claimed, cannot be cleaned by simply rubbing the rubber outlets. I have to dismantle mine monthly and stick a pin through each hole! Don't forget how to put it...

I helped someone change both immersions on an OSO. Not too sure about the scale on the inner wall of the cylinder, but for the loose deposits we used a wet n dry vac with all kinds of bendy hoses on the end. Took about 2 hours and we got a total of about half a black bag full. :shock: Also, the...

I am by no means experienced with these systems. First thoughts are loads of scale deposits can build up in the bottom of the cylinder, which is hard to remove due to lack of access. If the bottom immersion is sitting in this it will reduce lifespan. Is the thermostat(s) functioning correctly...

Am I correct in assuming that if the remaining cores (black & unsleeved CPC) are functioning, that they could be line, switched line or neutral? :shock:

And possibly change the circuit beaking device, and possibly add an RCD, and possibly change the isolation switch, but definitely get the circuit tested.

Adam like yourself, I think a mini circular saw would come in handy quite often. I've been pondering over this device. Slightly bigger blade, bigger motor, plunge depth adjustable. Might be worth a look-in...

Because you disconnected the cable from the switch to shower and there was still a problem before? I would suggest turn off all power, get yer headtorch on and have a root around in the loft looking for a the shower cable, and inspect every inch of it.

It could be the cable from your consumer unit (fusebox) to the switch, but without specific and costly testing equipment its hard to say. Did you say the cable "looked a bit shabby" or was it the old switch? You may have to get a sparky to have a look at this circuit.

dude. You said earlier you disconnected the shower side of the switch but it still caused tripping?

I know some of us have seen this before but now apparantly they're approved and on sale next week! Personally I think its a genius invention. Strange pic at bottom of 1st link though. http://www.iconeye.com/news/rca-student-radically-improves-the-uk-plug...

Yes, its a mistake to make the pump inaccessible, but it can be replaced with a different type of removable panel. To replace a pump is quite easy, just make sure you get the same specification, assuming the water supplies are easy to isolate... Edit: so previously you could hear the pump...

As long as its not your electricity bill, let them tamper with whats in their property. Just to clarify, when you switch your circuit breaker off, it turns your "problem light" off? And no one else can turn this light back on?

When you say maiins unit, do you mean the "fusebox?" (correct name consumer unit). If you do, and if you've switched off the circuit breaker then I wouldn't expect anyone else to be able to turn on the light. If you can get one for £10 then for the sake of interogating upstairs you might as well...

In the context of electrical safety, it appears a digression has been made. And congrats, you've superceded 35000 posts. And can we say you might also be the biggect thanker here?

Firstly you need to find out if any other switches operate the same light(s). It could be that if there is another switch, someone else has jammed it shut with a toothpick and sellotape. Can I assume its one of those pneumatic switches such as...

As RF said, they just go. Just like the ones in a kettle.

Strangley, water passes through the inlet filter first, but this is nowhere near as bad as the limescale trap. I don''t think this will cure your original problem though :(

Agreed, though I would classify that as a "top tip" rather than a "safety tip." With relevance to the tiltle, I would prefer to read about "safety tips."

Thank you very much for your safety tips.