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Just read this post....I had a Vaillant installed 2 years ago and it's nothing but troubles...drives me mad! Next time...oh next time!

Well, I use Autocad, it's for proffesional use and costs £3500! :( I'm not sure as to the cheaper packages out there because I don't need to use anything else!

When I did mine I didn't use any 22mm downstairs. It's a lot easier to tap off the 22mm upstairs. You will have to lift a few floor boards, find the 22mm as close as possible to the wall where the downstairs rad is sited, then branch off the 22 pipe, through the ceiling and down the wall. As...

True, it would have to be some kind of rockwool insulation layed on the back of the board

I used to build wooden houses in Scotland a few years back. What we used was recycled newspaper. It is shredded, treated and then pressed into a large block. What you have to do is use a special machine that pumps the newspaper through a long tube and into the cavity. It's very good because it's...

I can offer 2 suggestions....you can buy an adhesive specially for doing that. It allows a bit of movement. Make sure the boards are screwed down properly first though. Or you could first screw a sheet of ply on top of the boards before tiling. That means there's less movement and less chance...

My local council doesn't require permission for extensions under 70 cubic metres. If this is the case, it still might be a good idea to apply for building regs and submit them, it would also make it easier and less hassle when it comes to selling the house. (My council is Hampshire County...

500mm. So I was pretty close then! I think the extra 30mm was from the floor subsiding anyway! hehe...

Or you could use some 50x50 galvanised angle (you can buy it from the same place as the board normally) and first fix it to the back of the first board with plasterboard screws, and then put the second board in place and screw it down. That way it will never move! (We use this method in...

Well, mine are 530mm from top of bottom unit to bottom of top unit (if you get my drift!) and from what I've seen, are about the same as other kitchens I've seen.

I wish you would! I hate doing things twice (well, some things!hehe) I'll dig the tube out of the shed tomorrow and let you know what it is corgiman!

If it's for inside then you could cut suitable timber yourself, make sure they are screwed down properly to stop squeaking! It might be easier to remove the carpet (if any) and copy the old treads and risers for timber thickness and size.

I recently resealed my shower with a silicone that is water based opposed to oil based (when it's wet, you can wipe it off with a damp cloth, you don't have to use white spirit) Anyway, 2 weeks afterwards I am now noticing that it's starting to come off and go all flaky! It also didn't go off...

To fix it use something like an M10 rawl bolt (M12 if you want it really strong!)

I seem to be plugging British Gypsums website a lot, but here's a link to their quiet wall system. Battens and 2 layers of board sounds good, make sure it's "soundbloc" board and BG also do an "Isowool acoustic partition roll" that you could put in the cavity.

It probably does work fine, but I'm the type that hates to have to repair jobs again because I didn't do it right in the first place! It would be just my luck that the whole lot falls down and I would have to replace it again!

Sorry to contradict here, but for a bathroom you want to use Gyproc moisture resistant board. Normal wall board is only suitable for normal bedrooms etc, foil backed board is really for preventing the ingress of moisture from the other side of the board (eg in a shed or a wall where moisture...

From experience, you have to remove the majority of the silicone with a blade or scraper. Then use the silicone remover to get rid of any residue. Wipe down with a damp cloth and then clean the area with meths or a suitable cleaner. When you are ready to re-seal it, use masking tape and mask...

You can get Autocad LT for about £500, a light version of autocad. Still lots of money if you don't use it too much!

No, it's done on a program called Autocad. Costs about £3500 retail! I do drawings and design as a living. I would never use MS paint!