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Too true! I didn't find it that tricky because I was replacing doors, frames and skirting anyway. At the windows I pulled off the plaster (which was loose anyway) so that the board didn't sit too close to the inside edge of the frame. I even replaced the cills in some rooms because that looked...

They are the same thing. It is papery. Once you have taped, jointed and sanded the wall, dust it down and give it one coat of emulsion thinned down with water (not sure what the exact mix should be, but I tend to try and stick to about 50/50) which will make sure the next coat sticks properly...

Personally, I don't like plastering or skimming new plasterboard. It's perfectly flat as it is! All you need to do is fill the screw heads and tape and joint the joints between the boards. If you haven't done this before, get advice! It's tricky the first time around!

Or you could use metal studs and tracks. Easy to cut and fix! Also, better for fire rating...look here http://www.british-gypsum.com/PDF/a20_053.pdf This document will give you more info than you ever dreamed of! Best to print it out and read it, it makes things easier.

I have used lining paper with good results, make sure you fill all holes before had and also make sure you sand the wall properly first. A tiny spot of filler will show through the paper and look horrible! Also, when gluing, make sure you don't get any grit on the brush or this will show through...

This might make it easier, slightly more detailed because I know how you can scratch your head when it comes to building it! I've been there! Ignore the foundation sizes, this was for a garage that I drew up for someone, so they may not apply to you.

What you need to do is buy yourself a plasterboard access panel. Cut the correct size hole in the kitchen ceiling and fit it. Make sure the access panel is one with feathered edges so it's not so noticable. Thta's what I'm doing and it means you have access whenever you want!

Marty, what I do is tape all joints, apply filler to all screwheads and tapered joints. You should then only need to rub it down lightly to remove any rough spots. Then go over the tapered joints with a very wide spread, about 1/2 - 3/4 trowel width either side of the joint to make sure it...

Quack Quack??? hehe!

Thanks Masona, I'll give that a try!

I would put up a layer of moistureboard. Better finish, better resistance to moisture!

Personally I would reline the ceiling with another layer of board. On most of my rooms where the finish was really bad, I found out where the joists were, marked the positions on the walls and thrown up another layer of 9mm plasterboard. After a quick taping and jointing it looks like new! Maybe...

If the water stands too long won't it go slimy and also breed mosquitos in the summer months??

When I've tiled onto a painted wall (I assume a floor will be similar) I have used an angle grinder with a stone cutting disk and stripped some of the paint off so that the tile cement can key properly into the original cement. I didn't do the whole surface, but about 1/2 - 3/4.

Hi all, I have just stripped out all the silicone from around my shower tray to redo it. I have scraped out as much as I can, and I'm now applying a coat of Polycell silicon remover to get rid of any residue. Now, the question is, once I have removed that, what do I use to finally wipe down...

The normal way people suggest is to start in the middle of the room, mease the midpoint of each wall and join the lines in the middle. That way it evens out any cuts you may have on the edges. Measure the walls, mark the centres and pull a chalk line between the marks. The start in the middle...

I enquired about this to build my garage/shed extension and I don't have to have permission. In my area, anything under 70 cubic metres doesn't need permission. (be it brick, wood, tiles, felt..anything!) (I'm in North Hampshire) See the pics on my previous reply to a post...

Hi there, I've just found the site, and being a keen diy'er myself I thought I'd put a few posts up. I am currently building something very similar to what you are wanting to build. It's basicly an outside shed and utility room. The only difference is that it's attached to the house so that...