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Check for voltage at the valve whilst machine plugged in but not actually on. Could be fill relay 'leaking' current, on the control board, or could be a wiring issue, current leakage. If that all checks out ok its an issue with the programme chip on control board.

Either heating element, door wiring or control board heating relay. The latter is most likely.

Lay it on its back to see if access is available from underneath. Usually 2 screws at rear at the bottom (remove before laying it on its back), underneath will be 2 more screws to remove base plate or it could be 'hinged', drop down plate and lift away. The base flood overflow float will need to...

Tilting trick would leave a puddle of water on the floor or symptoms would have been drain pump constantly pumping, so don't think that was your problem. But as long as its working thats the main thing.

Whilst it is running fine observe the side pipes when first starting the machine so you know what to expect to happen next time it stops working, also make a mental note of the timing i.e draining, filling then pumping/circulation.

I would leave the side panels off for the time being until you have done a few wash cycles and sure its fine. You sure you had the water valve on after replacing the inlet valve? Easy mistake to forget. Of course its also possible theres a broken wire in the door loom or somewhere else thats...

Put the machine on a cycle and observe the side panel with the clear plastic water channels(not the side with one tube coming up to the back, this comes from the pump up to the back that feeds the upper wash arm inside the tub, pump doesn't cut in until tub has nearly finished filling), after...

Photo of both sides.

Your first link above in the list of three is the correct part. 1247943, £14.38 + postage. If you look closely at the exploded photos you will see the same markings QP3 12A J1, the J1 may be irrelevant but your Ed J is probably the same reference, hence why I asked you if it had any other...

With the tub now empty start a programme, hold onto the inlet hose close to the inlet valve at the back of the machine, after draining has finished the water inlet valve should open and let in water, do you either feel the inlet hose jolt/flex as pressure is released or do you feel any...

Aha, open the door all the way down, can you see screws on either side if you look between the bottom of the door and the plinth? There may be screws holding the plinth to the base. Once plinth is removed it will expose more screws to remove the side panels.

Put a jug of water in the tub and start a programme, does it drain the water out?

Remove the front bottom plinth to expose screws at the front that fix the side panel to the bottom base. Side panels will then lift away.

Wrong side!

Yeah sorry about that, was only paying attention to part numbers. Problem is your make is not listed in the fitment list and technical details are not provided for this part on that website. Look closer at your relay to see if there is a part number printed on the side of it.

This link lists the part number of both compressor and overload relay. Though more expensive! But possibly the same part but referenced to Samsung and priced accordingly. http://www.samsung-ersatzteilevon365.de/relais-ptcbixiqp2-12b3-zbs1115cy/product.pl?pid=1287448

Load Rated Amps. What is the LRA on the compressor label?

You'll probably find that the main difference is overload rating though its possible the spacing is different on the connection to the compressor. Compressors vary in LRA rating.

Photo would be good to confirm the part.

Might be better just to start checking/testing systematically starting with drain pump, waste hose / pipe / outlet / u bend etc... then move on to inlet valve,heater etc...