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Check the heating element, stats and thermal limiters, element could have a break in it and shorting across to another element wire hence still working/heating but not as hot, if all good next thing to check is the overflow cut out switch at the bottom next to the pump that pushes the water up...

Is there still water in the drum when it stops working? Probably is the control board but you should really test all other components first i.e inlet valves, pressure sensor, heating element, thermostat etc.. then go on to remove and inspect control b/d. I think all the other components will be...

Of course replacing the unit is preferable. Either method of repair will at least get the machine working again now.

Can't use solder cos it will just melt. Can't use a block connector, too heavy, cos the weight will cause sagging. Weld the wires together-don't think that would be possible. Could very well have been the original problem as you described, certainly fits the symptoms.

You could attempt a repair. Pull the end of the heater wire through the ceramic hole and twine the two ends together. The tension in the 'spring' should hold it together as well. Providing the spring is not stretched too much causing it to sag (remember that when it heats up the wire will expand...

Are you going to replace the whole heating element assembly or attempt a repair? Still a good idea and good practice to check and clean other parts whilst its disassembled.

The swashplate appears to be bolted to the motors armature and is fixed tight. Not adjustable or moved. Yes it is definately turning.

I don't think its bent. The actuator valve assembly slides into the housing most of the way then taps in 'home' so don't think its a clamped type.

Cleaned up and reassembled, much better pressure but... Its now cutting in and out when switched on but gun trigger not pressed, at the same time its causing the house lights to flickers. This did not happen before, I am guessing its to do with the cut out switch/actuator. When its switched on...

Dmm across cap reads 410v which looks good but for £3 I shall swap out just to check it is running motor at full power.

I did check voltage across the cap, read around 410v which is what I'm guessing you would expect. I shall replace it just to check that it has not degraded hence not giving it enough power to run the motor at full power. £3 so not expensive and may get to use it elsewhere if not needed.

20160123_151951 by yardie posted 23 Jan 2016 at 3:22 PMmotor cut out actuator and housing outlet valve

Not yet been able to remove the cut out valve but it does operate and the spring returns it so assuming thats ok. There is some pressure just not as much as it should be. Cannot see any cracks or anything else amiss. Certainly sounds like motor is turning and like I say there is some pressure...

20160123_124131 by yardie posted 23 Jan 2016 at 12:41 PM20160123_122737 by yardie posted 23 Jan 2016 at 12:39 PMoperates a switch which cuts out power to the motor when activated by screwing in the min/max pressure control valve20160123_122705 by yardie posted 23 Jan 2016 at 12:39...