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As has been said by Davy i think,the main equipotential bonding you need for your water pipes should be made at a suitable location that is accessible for inspection and testing as soon as it enters your house. The plastic pipe, (blue) , MUST come up through a floorboard at some point and where...

:lol: I VOTE TO GET RID OF RINGS...FOR GOOD :shock:

HIJACK....sorry... Ive never worked with resin joints as yet Spark but can you still carry on the continuity of the steel wire using resin joints?

Oh the choices are limitless really ratter,you could use something along the lines of these..... http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101858&ts=12294&id=16316 Your local DIY superstore will have a wider range to choose from but directional spot tracks are the idea im tring to...

Thats good news then Jackd,so bring the box above ground and using external grade SWA glands and a decent make of waterproof box,make the connection there. There will be no need to put any sealer inside this box. Just make sure you continue the earth continuity of the steel armour.

In reality if you look at it, the CPC`s longest route ends at the switch but the phase`s` longest route is,as col says,at the rose. Confusing if you dig deep :roll:

Just a quick one Jackd Is this cable steel wire armoured or just plain grey/white twin and earth?

:twisted: recessed SPOTS :twisted: :lol: O.K with these type of fittings you will get pots of dark spots in places they are fitted and `ONLY` get light in a direct beam downwards. If i fit spots in a kitchen i take a vertical line from the edge of the worktop/wall unit (whichever...

O.K... For starters the waterproof box should be above ground as it must be accessible for inspection and testing. Second... you have squirted a sealant over terminals of live conductors and im not sure if sealant is conductive but under operation they will heat up and melt the sealant so...

Hi Devils Where about in manchester are you ?

Erm....and a guy at B&Q told you to do this?....on a waterproof box? Did this box have pre-drilled holes or did you have to drill them out? Did you use any grommets/glands where the cable entered the box?

Hi Ratter Are you planning recessed spots or something else?

When you say `fill` the box...do you mean fill the entire inside of the box? or did you mean you sealed where the cables entered the box?

Hi Securespark could work out good this as im in Stockport (offerton) and may soon be looking for a house to do as a job for my NICEIC Domestic Installers samples. I have 2381,2391 and a level 2 domestic elec installers qualification. Im looking for some guidance and im sure we could work...

Your right om the 1666 ohms but some say `but no more than 200 ohms` Whether its a T.T, TNC-S or a TNS the max Zs is the same, so for C&G to mention TNS system their just trying to be foxy!!!

Saleem, As plugwash says ,your electrician will be terminating the SWA in a 20mm galvanized box with a screw on lid and butting it to your plastic C.U. Depending on the quality of the plastic that the C.U is made,,or the weight/angle the SWA is terminated it can put strain on the C.U walls...

Yes you can join the two red wires together using a piece of choc block or you can use a junction box in the void above the light fitting (please remember the junction box must be made so it is accessible for inspectio/testing).

Hi olney Try a company called TRG electrical. I now get all my C.Units with them and they can get 80A 100mA TYPE-S RCCBO`S for around £20. Visit controlgear direct ltd to view their online catalogue.

Yes you can ken... You have two options.... 1.If the cable that came with your lights are suitable for carrying 6amps or over then you can just cut the plug and either junction box the cable to your lighting system (wired in the various manors). 2. If the cable is only rated to less than 6...

Hiya John.. So your saying in a T.T earthing system DP switches are to be used?