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http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=93168 No just treat the 1st 2ft from the wall (it's the most critical area as it's still absorbing moisture from the adjacent brick). YES. this is quite important as by putting the sheet down the water tries to surface elsewhere and the...

it's a difficult one to call as u really need a meter to monitor what's happening to the moisture level. i'm a firm believer if it's not broke don't fix it. so would say keep an eye on the floorboards and make sure they do dry out. the odds of getting rot are NOT high so i feel you'll most...

Stevie, the posts are not trying to be unhelpful in fact the opposite and u need to see it that way for safety. most of the suppliers of lintels have a technical section who will carryout the calc for u if you can fax them the details. they will need a plan, elevation and section along...

dehumidifier would be fine although i would just leave the door open when you can and a window open slightly for a while. wood needs to stay wet for at least 8 weeks before rot will set in.

i've had a right game with what sounds very familiar. you really need to keep watch to establish if you get water or not as this has a biggish bearing on what to do. there are some existing posts on the subject. if the floor is just getting damp then dpm covered with gravel will be fine...

check out prices from other merchants. i've found TP too expensive in past for lintels.

fire places definitely add character to a room so taking out a chimney breast does not want to be done lightly. you will still have an outside wall to fit a gas fire so you could take out the chimney and still keep some of the character. usually houses that have chimneys have one at the...

Duzzer, i'll keep a look in on your post if i can. won't be mutch help as it's too high up for me. had a good lol already on the woody bit. i've been trying to pluck up courage to do my loft for a while. i found the following DIY exploits of interest...

Mikell, just noticed this post which may be of interest. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=127794

Mikell, good to know your back up and running, well almost. i always feel when getting work done it comes down to gut feeling on who you feel you can trust and get on with rather than cheapest price. a recommendation by someone you know is by far the best. i know indirectly several...

going to get the house done on the grant system. have identified the common materials as: 1) Polystyrene bonded beads 2) Glass wool (yellow or white) 3) Rockwool (grey/brown) the thermal conductivity for them all is in the region of 0.04 W/mk. the installation tolerance ranges...

sorry may have misled you. i meant normal laminate but with a tile effect on the top - the slate tile look is particularly good. the type i buy is from BandQ. see for example at screwfix, code 66566.

i am not sure that render is what you want. i think it's probably more like lime plaster. render is a very hard material effectively mortar. i've not seen/come across a sand which with the white opc would give the required natural white colour. building sand and washed plastering won't...

i think you’re going to struggle to find what you need. would try local builders merchant for ideas though as it might get a lead. i think only way is to use brown decorators caulk or suitable colour laminate filler. i suggest this on basis they remain flexible and can be smoothed with...

stairs are one thing you don't want to mess with and get wrong. for me a definitely no no no for sticking them down. one step/block is bound to fall off and as we all do - it'll be left and the rest is down to luck on how & what gets injured. i suspect masonry drills won't drill the tiles...

i use 50mm single side gaffer or duct tape (screwfix 14470) applied on top of the underlay. i use 3/4" blue fine cut tacks to hold the underlay at the corners and ends of joints.

i would fill in the deeper voids up front with mortar. say sharp sand 5:1 difficult one. i would say no go straight on with the self leveller. make sure you use the latex or equivalent as it minimises hairline cracking. suggest 1st doing a trial to make sure by putting a spread of the mortar...

if you've not got kids then carpet will be ok. i like carpet but i've gradually moved it all upstairs and replaced with tiles and laminate. appreciate the thought process on the need for access but i would still put laminate down. as for carpet underlay then i don't see anything...

in the uk [/url]www.richard burbridge.co.uk[url] make stair kits and provide a fitting guide and installation DVD. it's quite easy to follow you just need to take your time. you do need a good mitre saw though to make the cuts on the spindles and the spacers. i presume without a kit then...

pretty much everything can be painted. with tricky surfaces such as mdf you need a specific primer before putting on the top coat. i don't know if quarry tiles are such and would go to my local crown decorating centre for advice. i put quarry tiles down in quite a lot of kitchens although...