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brig - yep, mine's still going strong too. The hedge trimmer attachment that came with it was the 'in-line' straight type so I recently got an Expand-it swivel head hedge trimmer attachment to do the tops of my hedges (10' tall privets!!!) and it works really well ... just turn the head to the...

jacko - I've taken pity on you as others have ignored your post. Use a Stanley knife to slice off the tops of those horizontal trims but take care not to chip the glaze on the tiles; leave the vertical trim in place. Fill the top edge of the tiles with grout and blend in with your...

brian - it's often less disruptive to attend to problem pipework by accessing from below. If you've got access to room below bathroom you can "save the disruption of getting the floor up and lifting the shower tray along with poss damage to wall tiles" by first cutting a smallish hole in the...

True joe ... but didn't they snuff it about 70 million years ago. The netting isn't really to keep the chucks in (even muscular cartoon cockerels!) but to ensure Mr Fox can't get in :) The chuckies could be contained by plakka fruit netting but Foxy would easily munch his way through that...

beef - check-out Belfast Gumtree first ... look for air stapler/compressor. Hand staplers, even the dog's Arrow, aren't the route to go; yep, they'll shoot the staples in but 1/2" will be the max depth and in my experience that isn't deep enough. One tug on the mesh WILL pop the staple out...

m - consider using a snap-off blade knife ... these are great for slicing through the silicone 'cos the blade, if extended way out, is flexible so you can get it really flat against bath/wall tiles. You can't get knives with more 'solid' blades, like a Stanley knife, flat (your knuckles are in...

Naut - no need for any fancy carpentry here, just bolt through the overlapping timber. Usually scarfs and so on would be used in exposed positions where aesthetics are important or for particular structural reasons.

Naut - "What would be the best way to bolt the original joist to new joist ?" If the join position is unsupported below (no sleeper wall ... a low wall that supports joists and often has gaps for air flow in it) then clamp the new and old timber together then with an electric drill make...

Buzz - agh! agh! ... not the dreaded bog mats :shock: Celebrate the odd tiles as a deliberated design feature - say, place a couple in front of the bog where your feet go (one for each foot with a gap between) and ditto at the basin; it'd be even better if you could get these odd tiles with a...

Buzz - if you have no luck obtaining the extras consider either, dropping-in a couple of contrasting tiles in a maybe random position. Or, and this would be what I would do, border the entire room with similar size tiles (in a complementary/contrasting colour) but cut, say in half. That way...

Naut - bouncy floors usually means rotten joists below and from your pics you seem to have localised rot, especially near that doorway into the conservatory; that doorway may have always existed (pre-conservatory) as an external doorway. This situation often led to structural timbers (joists)...

george - I've used similar to these on some of my pots. http://hepworth.wavin.com/master/master.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374305508436&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524445171275&middleTemplateName=oc_middle_product_detail_I Being terracotta they're heavy enough to stay in place without the...

Consider a sump containing a pump with a float switch then pipe the stuff away.

They do groover sets that'll go down to 3.2mm.

Whitespirit wrote: "Gate valve. No sir. Work of the Devil! A full flow lever arm valve if you please." But only if Mrs securespark isn't in the habit of hanging-up heavy damp towels from convenient 'hooks' (ie.lever arms) in the airing cupboard :lol: Anyway, looks like...

secure - yep, pipe freezer or tie-up ball-cock above C/W tank (to prevent refilling), drain H/W side via bath tap 'till flow stops. Oh, and whilst C/W tank is empty consider fitting a gate valve somewhere convenient so you can shut off C/W suppy from tank in future.

WiIC - consider using a decent self-adhesive underlayment (something like Elastilon). Go to their website for installation methods and double check their advice regarding moisture content of the concrete sub-floor ... hire a moisture meter to check. Lay a DPM if necessary then the underlayment...

Davipat - look here to ID the tackle you need then local tool merchants - even B&Q stock a basic range of cutters. http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/index.php

secure - if you've got a cold water cylinder in the loft try sticking a bung in the outlet pipe (this tank will supply cold water to your H/W side). By bunging it you may cancel pressure to the H/W side and stop flow. Yep, you'll get a wet arm by reaching to the bottom of the cold water tank...

dal - when doing conversions in big London houses back in the 70s & 80s we would fix tanalised battens to brickwork (usually London stocks) with 4" cut nails. These bricks were generally easy to penetrate with these nails; a few 'blobs' of gun-o-prene (an early type of Gripfil) on the batten...