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zom - not good enough ... he clearly doesn't know how to trim this type of veneered doors without splitting. Tell him you're not happy, pay him for the one, then look for another guy to do the work. I'd usually take the stops off first, fit the door then plant the stops back on as often...

Chris - Trend's Window Industry tackle might be a place to start: http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/4/144/Plunge_Slotting_and_Routing.html

com - open it up to it's original size as shown by red line: I presume that flexi liner is hanging loose ready for your new tackle, or does it continue through the hearth to the floor below?

cat said: "if the floor has sagged a bit you can level it up before you bolt the ply on." Use a bottle jack or scissor jack (from your car) with a length of timber to ease up. Oh, and apply some building adhesive to the mating faces of joist/ply as well as the suggested mechanical...

orv - freehand routing for T&G is possible but the use of a router table is the better method; do you already have a router? An alternative (and probably a better method) might be to consider biscuit joints. If you've only got a few butt joints (and you are bonding to the sub-floor)...

Amy - it's very likely your silver accents are simply the cast iron burnished to a shine ... a very common technique. To refurbish these use a couple of grades of emery cloth (medium, fine, very fine) - emery cloth is metalwork's answer to glasspaper (mistakenly called sandpaper). Do not be...

Sally - these narrow fireplaces either had a cast iron fireback or as in your case a mounting frame for fireclay panels. These refractory sections would be cut to size with the joints sealed with a thin smear of fire cement (a bit like mortar between house bricks but much, much thinner). To...

lee - have you bought the chipboard yet? If you haven't, DON'T. Use T&G flooring ply and if any of this new flooring is going into a bathroom consider using exterior grade ply there.

Steve - have you found that small plakka bag containing the chrome nut, bronze shim and rubber O ring? Printed on the outside of this bag are the instructions of how to fit, complete with diagrams. Take care when opening this plakka bag as you may destroy the the printing if ripped open...

Blimey - looking at the timestamps of most of these posts isn't anybody doing any work (or wealth creation :roll: ).

Apologies ... typo - should be 8mm not 3/8". Ok, there'll be a chrome braided connector within the cistern (this is the OP's shinny pipe) which terminates through the base. In the cistern pack will be a plakka bag containing a chromed nut, a bronze shim washer and an O ring whose internal...

no1 - as the floor has already been oiled you CANNOT apply any form of varnish or lacquer ... it will not set properly and may (probably will) streak and spoil the floor. I also have a large dog/oiled oak floor combo and have conquered the problem by getting the dog's nails clipped shortish...

Steve - you'll probably also need a short length of 3/8" copper pipe (maybe 60mm) to make the interface between the reducer on the end of the 15mm pipe and the gland within the cistern connector. Trouble is the sheds sell 3/8" in long length rolls so go to your local plumbers merchant and get a...

com - I did this 20 years ago for friends of mine and they were very pleased with the result ... a massive improvement they said! They also had a pre-war semi. There's no point in attempting to treat the chimney breast as it has sufficient mass (thickness) not to transmit the sound from next...

2 darning needles, croc clips, .... STOP, STOP, STOP :twisted:

com - get a poly/cotton mix boiler suit BUT, BUT, BUT make sure it's well oversize. Back in the day you could get them with removable button toggs for washing but most of the ones I see these days have press studs. When they get filthy rinse-out in a bucket to get the thick off before putting...

crum - one of these if you have a lot to do and they have brances all over the UK. http://www.hss.com/g/7421/Tile-Saw-Bench-Inc.-Blade-110v.html Oh, be friendly with them and they might do a deal.

Dun - yep, right next to the nails but before you do make some educated guesses as to pipe and cable runs below. Located position of radiator and don't screw at pipe positions parallel along the wall or straight out from the wall, ditto with any leccy sockets. This is NOT a fool-proof method...

F - the two issues here are airbourne and impact. You seem to understand the need to fill the below floor void to reduce the airbourne noise but to combat impact noise you have to essentially 'detach' the top layer from the floor mass below. This is achieved by introducing an acoustic 'quilt'...