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Manual switching is a good idea, thanks flameport For a permanent solution: 1, Fit new contactor and wire to 5th terminal or 2, Fit new storage heaters which incorporate timers etc. Dimplex Quantum or similar or 3, Fit Shelley WiFi switches or similar and set on/off times in an app. These are...

I went back to take some photos He has a 5 terminal meter, but no idea where the 5th terminal is connected - there’s no contactor The storage heater circuit is permanently live, so the Apollo Fixed Receiver is supposed to be switching On the keypad, the storage heaters indicate “waiting for...

He has had a 5 terminal smart meter fitted, so it could be that’s not working. I can’t tell if it’s the meter or the controller. Still don’t know how the controller works

Thanks Stuckinarut, I have set the time and date and still nothing. Could it be looking for the RTS signal?

Hi, a neighbour has a Smart Heat controller and his heating has stopped working. He has boxes next to each storage heater switch and a black box next to the consumer unit Does anyone have an instruction manual for this, and thoughts as to why it has stopped working Thanks, Brian

We have a Megaflow and when ours was blocking up we had reduced pressure on the cold taps and normal pressure on the hot taps for up to a minute, then the same as the cold. The reason was because the blockage doesn’t reduce pressure, only flow and the bubble in the tank would supply the hot...

Is it on both flushes - long and short? We have one that bumps only on the short flush, but I never got to the bottom of it - concealed cistern and I can’t be bothered while it’s still working Brian

There are some ideas here which might help with this part of the question https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/pumped-hot-water-loop-alternative.626995/ Brian

Looks like something should go in the slot to hold onto the button Like the red part on this one Brian

That’s the type I got a plumber in to check it out and he confirmed it was likely the pressure regulator. He changed it and all good. I don’t think it’s a DIY job, so better to get someone in. I’m not a qualified plumber, so hopefully someone who is can advise better Brian

I had this on an unvented cylinder and the pressure regulator had to be replaced What sort of hot water tank do you have? Do you have a tank in your loft? Brian

Why not wait until all the food will fit into three then remove the fuse from the plug of number four. “Discover” it just in time, declare it faulty, move all the food out and get rid of it Brian

I diagnosed a problem like this with masking tape and cling film. I taped up the bath overflow then taped a square of cling film over the plug hole so that it was loose and I could tell if it inflated or was sucked flat. Each time the toilet was flushed the cling film went down, and after two...

Question to everybody really, could you put an elbow under the sink and pipe the waste to the back of the cabinet, then another elbow to get vertical and put the trap there? Brian

On our unvented cylinder the thermostat had failed. It unplugged from the end of the immersion heater and was easy to change, but ours doesn’t look like yours. Maybe removing the cover would help As Madrab says above, an electrician could figure it out Brian

The ones we use will cost more than that I think, but we use shielded ethernet cable: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/data-plug-vs-08-rj45-5-qip20-bk-1658008 Brian

We use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265613508766?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J1Wn6_hyTkS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=PAZa6vcrQwW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can find out which ones tomorrow if you like Brian

That Honeywell thermostat comes in two parts: One box goes on the wall and actually does the switching The other box detects the room temperature and sends commands to the first part wirelessly. This runs on batteries and you can put it wherever you like; somewhere in the living room would be a...

You could wire in the Honeywell DT4R where the existing thermostat is. Alternatively, you could locate the other end of the thermostat cables, disconnect them to make the hallway safe, then wire it in there I would wire it in where the existing thermostat is, at least in the first instance as...

Losses are going to be worse for sure, but Cisco are saying: I have no idea where they think the power is going to come from. Cable losses will be higher too as lower volts has to mean higher amps, and it’s a thinner cable Brian