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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fibre-Washers-1-2-to-Fit-15mm-Tap-Connector-per-10-Red-Washer-/251225687268?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3a7e37c4e4

Very much doubt you will be able to stop the leak with any external sealant. Probably not worth sourcing replacement part either. One of these should be more or less compatible with what you've got now: http://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-enrich-electric-shower-8-5kw/52753

does he switch off electrical sockets too to try and save on his leccy bill?

831 has a max 24kw output to central heating. btu equivalent is 80,000. will easily cope with seven rads whatever size they are.

drain off point under the floor somewhere or under the boiler? Whoever fitted it in the first place can't have filled the system just the once,finished the job and then f*cked off. No-one would do that, surely...?

Attachez les tuyaux aux radiateurs au dessous des tuyaux de circulation principals comme vous le proposez et fixez un purgeur automatique ou quand meme manuel en dessus. ca va regler le probleme? En effet,qu'est ce que ca va changer si les tuyaux s'attachent au-dessus des tuyaux prinipals-...

Am sure some people think a boiler is just a box you run a couple of pipes to as this question comes up all the time. Two things to say about that. 1) You're down the **** end of the market with those boiler prices and I actually don't think you can get a boiler and flue for £400.Think...

Checked the cistern is level? Use a different donut? And no, it doesnt have to sit flush with pan, Its not unusual to se a small gap.

P*sstaking ****s!

Size/location of condensate pipe has nothing to do with boiler design. It is a responsibility of the installer to ensure he takes reasonable steps when running the condensate pipe to minimise the risk of freezing.

Cheers for the encouragement. RST carbon steel in actual fact @ £9 from T**lstation. Fresh out of its wrapper as well and not broken in am afraid. Out of interest if a pro was doing a job like this what size and make of trowel would he/you use? And what about a big float trowel (20"long?)...

Gave the ceiling another coat this morning as I knew I could do better. Skimmed two of the walls yesterday -two coats of finish applied, got the whole thing right timing wise, and it was no real effort, trowelling kept to a minimum compared to the ceiling day before and made the ceiling look...

No offence taken in any way. I am still a learner with a long way to go. Appreciate everyone's comments.

I found it a challenge I admit and it's not Sistine chapel standard but maybe not as bad as it looks. Not totally over the moon with it but it's only the second ceiling I've skimmed.Promise to do better. Didn't need a skim coat bead-picture doesn't show it clearly but where the ceiling drops...

The finished job. Learned a few lessons along the way. Got the plaster on the ceiling quick enough but fannied about trowelling it for too long after the first coat and so should have pva'd it before the second coat. Got away with it though.

Yes the ceiling drops down to a lower part. The wooden looking 'bit' below where the plasterboard stops is a wooden moulding which is only a couple of mm proud of the plasterboard -partly why I was asking about the extent of the bonding coat. I could always fix another deeper moulding in its...

Ok thanks will do as suggested and lay in the scored plasterboard strips. I presume I am then aiming to build up the curve using a continuous coat of bonding and feathering it into where the curve starts/stops? Rather than just applying bonding coat in the angles where the strips meet?

Any tips on how to finish the boarding on this ceiling (curve at one end)? I could lay in some more plasterboard to fill the gaps but did a dry run like this and this makes the edges of the curve shaped like a threepenny bit so I guess i would have to get the curve back with some bonding...

Sounds like there is no wall plate elbow fitted and the pipe is connected to the male end of the bib tap using nut and olive.seen it done and it usually works but is poor workmanship. In that case there is nothing holding the tap to the wall apart from the pipe. If you want to change it you...

Have another look at the job F*ckedup71. So ur gonna cut some 4" pipe are you? Wot r u gonna do with it when you've cut it? Ram it into the socket end ?Have a hard think cos that's not going to work here. You're going to need offsets and it will look an even bigger lash up than what's there...