Tips on how to finish boarding curved ceiling.

[Steady]

Any tips on how to finish the boarding on this ceiling (curve at one end)?

I could lay in some more plasterboard to fill the gaps but did a dry run like this and this makes the edges of the curve shaped like a threepenny bit so I guess i would have to get the curve back with some bonding before skimming.
Got the feeling it'd be better to fill the two channels with bonding coat and try and reproduce the curve this way?

Or soak some plasterboard and bend it?

Didn't fancy this last idea for some reason.

Cheers.

 

[NickB_99]

Any tips on how to finish the boarding on this ceiling (curve at one end)?

Maybe a cop-out, but as it's a small radius curve, I'd be tempted just to use a single piece of board angled (e.g. 45 degs) across the outside edges of the 'white bits'.
Good results would be easier to achieve.
But that's just me

 

[roughcaster]

I "wouldn't" fill up the gaps up with bonding coat. I'd use plasterboard, but not soak it,,, instead, "carefully"score along the back of whole length/s 2 or 3 times, with a stanley blade, just enough to get it bend into the rough shape/curve, then fix it firmly in place with screws/grab adhesive Once you've fixed it in place, scrim along all the joints in the curve. I would not only scrim the joints along the length, i'd also scrim around the curve vertically,, from one end to the other,,, overkill maybe, but it will be well bound together. I'd then scratch it in with a coat of bonding coat to form a good shape, then leave it to set/dry out until the following day. On the following day, seal the now "roughly plastered curve" with a coat of pva. Let it dry, then give it another coat, and then start plastering onto it while still wet/tacky. I'd use bonding coat again, to fine tune the shape of the curve. That is "exactly" the way that i would do it. I also coat every job i do with bonding coat, (in the morning), then a couple of coats of multi finish in the afternoon,,, always a far better finish to a job doing it that way,,,, in my opinion.

 

[Steady]

Ok thanks will do as suggested and lay in the scored plasterboard strips.

I presume I am then aiming to build up the curve using a continuous
coat of bonding and feathering it into where the curve starts/stops?

Rather than just applying bonding coat in the angles where the strips meet?

 

[roughcaster]

Ok thanks will do as suggested and lay in the scored plasterboard strips.

I presume I am then aiming to build up the curve using a continuous
coat of bonding and feathering it into where the curve starts/stops?

Exactly!!,, go 7 or 8 inches, or more, beyond where it stops and starts if possible, and let it set. Also, dont forget to scrim along the length, and as i said,, for extra strength, tape vertically around the curve, all the way along. Hope you understand what i mean,,, let me know if you don't and i'll explain it more,,, hopefully. The finished job will make a nice feature. Looking at the pic,, does the ceiling drop to a lower level? If it does, you will need to fix a thin coat bead along the angle. Makes it easier to do the job.

 

[Steady]

Yes the ceiling drops down to a lower part. The wooden looking 'bit' below where the plasterboard stops is a wooden moulding which is only a couple of mm proud of the plasterboard -partly why I was asking about the extent of the bonding coat. I could always fix another deeper moulding in its place or mount a small moulding onto on the front of it to act as a stop bead. The half inch deep lighter coloured strip below this moulding is actually another moulding- suppose it probably looks like the cut edge of a plasterboard sheet, but it's not.
Think I understand what you mean about the scrim tape. Gonna need a couple more rolls then...

 

[plstering]

i tent to score lines in the back of the board 2" apart then wet the frunt and back with a water brush a couple of times rest it up agenst from the wall rest a bag of plaster agenst it have a cupper tea then buder bing buder bang theres your curve wet it down fix it at the top push it in place fixing it as you go

 

[Steady]

The finished job.

Learned a few lessons along the way. Got the plaster on the ceiling quick enough but fannied about trowelling it for too long after the first coat and so should have pva'd it before the second coat. Got away with it though.

 

[keyplayer]

you will need to fix a thin coat bead along the angle.

Any reason for not doing this?

 

[stevethespreader]

Got away with it though.

im going to be honest here your job looked sweet right up to the last pic (the skim) everything looked nice, nice boarding nice curve, then you ruin it on a bad job with the skim, if you ask me the whole thing needs a reskim

 

[1john]

I dont think it looks bad, although the proof is in the painting, anyway, it's only a pva and skim job if it doesn't look tidy.

 

[keyplayer]

if you ask me the whole thing needs a reskim

Bit harsh that! Looks alright for a non pro job, a few random trowel lines for sure, but it should paint up alright. Maybe a touch of filler here and there.

 

[Steady]

im going to be honest here your job looked sweet right up to the last pic (the skim) everything looked nice, nice boarding nice curve, then you ruin it on a bad job with the skim

I found it a challenge I admit and it's not Sistine chapel standard but maybe not as bad as it looks. Not totally over the moon with it but it's only the second ceiling I've skimmed.Promise to do better.

Didn't need a skim coat bead-picture doesn't show it clearly but where the ceiling drops down that's a wooden moulding, acting as a stop bead.

 

[trowelmonkey1]

looks alright for only your second ceiling mate, and a curve in it too!

 

[stevethespreader]

if you ask me the whole thing needs a reskim

Bit harsh that!

i said i was being honest and gave my opinion, it all depends what standard of workmanship you have, i have seen better ceilings than that get a pull and have to have a reskim.