Advice on boarding this curved ceiling

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I'm looking to overboard a lathe and plaster ceiling with moisture board in my Victorian property then have it skimmed. The eaves of the roof cause the ceiling to curve. I want to stagger the boards but this curve makes it difficult. I'm thinking I should just run a board along the entire area of the curve and stagger the remaining boards on the flat area however if there's any movement in the joists it's going to crack where the board on the curve meets the rest of the boards. Is bending an option here? This is moisture board and I've been told not to get it wet.
 

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I think that's a raised collar ceiling, just board as normal, butting the slope and ceiling as close as possible, scrim tape and the plasterer will build it up when he skims it.

I have had a similar ceiling.

It might be advisable to add a polythene sheet to the current ceiling before you re-board. This will help stop water vapour reaching the roof area.
 
Is it possible to either do the flat parts first, then infill with thinner strips?
or similar,
prepare the easiest part, and cut through the next PB in the rear with a a series of slots in the same way as “bendy ply / MDF” works to follow the curve of the existing ceiling?

I am no plasterer/dry liner!
 
Slope and ceiling separate pieces of board, then round off joint with plaster to make a curve.

Or other way is cut along the back of board several times to allow it to snap around curve . I've never been that successful doing this
 
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Or google flexible plasterboard, plenty of options.
 
I think that's a raised collar ceiling, just board as normal, butting the slope and ceiling as close as possible, scrim tape and the plasterer will build it up when he skims it.

I have had a similar ceiling.

It might be advisable to add a polythene sheet to the current ceiling before you re-board. This will help stop water vapour reaching the roof area.

Won't the moisture boards do the job?

Slope and ceiling separate pieces of board, then round off joint with plaster to make a curve.

Or other way is cut along the back of board several times to allow it to snap around curve . I've never been that successful doing this

I won't be doing the skimming myself, so I'll leave this to the plasterer after jointing.
 
Up to you, most don't bother. Hasn't got to be anything thick.
 

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