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The garden to the front is flagged (see pic in original post). Even if I were to bring down the external ground below the internal subfloor void and open up the one air brick if it can be accessed the air is not going to flow anywhere as the back of the room which may have originaly had vents...

Neighbours report similar issue. The mains water comes in from the back which is concrete and can't see any issues there. Did ring united utilities who advise they don't have any assets running under the house. It does smell excessively.

Its about 50-60cm from floorboards to ground level. The entire subfloor is sodden wet with pockets of areas where the floor dips up and down with pooling water. This property is also on a slope, situated in the middle of a row of terraced houses. I'm unable to open the air vents as the ground...

Thanks for the tip. The backing paper was in good condition and there definitely is lining paper beneath. I've just gone ahead now and removed it all back to the original wall and will reline and paint over it - don't want to risk it going wrong after i've painted so i've just pulled it all back.

I have a 1900s terraced house. The front room is of suspended timber floor and the back room has a concrete floor. The floorboards in the front room constantly keep rotting as there is water under the subfloor void and the entire room smells of damp. If i dig a hole in the subfloor void (see...

I've removed the top layer of some wallpaper which has left its backing paper. Underneath the backing paper is lining paper. Can I paint over the wallpaper backing paper or I'm I going to have to strip back to the plaster, reline it again and then paint? Please note I can't paint directly...

I have one of them prefab concrete garages which has a corrugated roof (probably asbestos) and a wooden fascia board and capping. The capping boards and fascia have rotted which I need to replace. What kind of wood should I use. Should I use pressure treated timber or will normal planed...

Hi, I need to bond and seal a piece of timber which is already over painted with a sikkens oils based paint to some bricks. Whats a decent sealant adhesive that will work on oil based paints? Is stixall any good and will it adhere to timber that has an oil based paint? Any advice and...

Wouldn't squeezing a bit of silicone mastic into the holes suffice and then pushing through the plugs...it only three holes?

How else can i fix it without drilling into the DPM? Also how do I repair the section of DPM thats damaged in the pic? Are they jus strips layed on top of the bricks and how are they bonded down to the bricks? Also whats the difference between DPM and DPC...

Hi, Looks like there is a Damp Proof Membrane on the brick work I need to drill into and the bricks I think are engineering type with holes in the middle (e.g. see pic, please note I'm not entirely sure if its the same type of brick with out ripping up the mortar and DPM layer) so finding the...

28W was very bright though for a bathroom thats only 2 x 2 meters

The original is a 28W bulb

The only reason i bought the 16W philips version was becuase the ballast has 18 on it so I'm assuming thats the max recommended wattage.

This is the one I purchased. You can see on the reverse the images show a tick against HF and a cross against EM. So will this be compatible then with the fitting/ballast i have?

Thats the same as the one I got from toolstation https://www.toolstation.com/philips-energy-saving-2d-style-cfl-lamp/p66852 except the one I got is 16W PL-Q 4P. but as I mentioned on the reverse of the packaging it says only compatible with HF?

That's a bit pricey...how does it work. Do you just fit it into the existing plug where the 2D lamp slots into?

Any idea where I can get a 2d lamp compatible with magnetic ballast then? All the ones I've looked at on screwfix or toolstation say only compatible with electronic ballast e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/asd-gr10q-4-pin-2d-compact-fluorescent-light-bulb-1050lm-16w/86579...

I have a 2D florescent bath lamp which is constantly blinking and won't remain switched on. Tried replacing the start switch which made no difference. I want to try replacing the bulb now to see if that's the problem however i don't know what type of ballast I have and most of the bulbs i've...

How can I tell if my existing fitting has an electronic ballast or magnetic ballast? On the Fernhoward brochure it says "Compatible with most High Frequency 2D bulkheads, including EM". What does EM stand for, does it mean Electromagnetic and is that the same as being a magnetic ballast? This...