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And the point of these questions, from a DIY perspective are ?

Check the brushes.

Traps wont normally (even after a year) dry out unless they have a leak. I suggest you find and fix the leak. edit: and why have you posted this in 'roofing and guttering' !

I don't normally go for Q & B stuff but I re-plumbed my 2 bathrooms (all 15mm) using their benders and they were fine and are still as good as the day I bought them.

Sounds about right as the temp out of the boiler is something like about 85c and its normally your tank stat (55c ish) which regulates your water temp. So if the tank stat is out of play (not calling for heat) due to you continually pushing 85c water through it, thats what will be in your tank...

I had the same problem. I used manageable strips of plaster board (skirting size depth). I cut to a size that I could manage and dry fitted it in front of the gap so that I knew I could get it in there. Then dampened the board and the gap (so foam takes to it), sprayed foam along the length of...

Haf, I have exactly the same set up as you and some years ago did as your last post suggests. So I have CH on the old programmer set to permanently on and the programmable thermostat cycles through the various temps I want at the various times of day. I use the existing HW function on the old...

Pick it up, walk to the position where you want it, then put it down :?

No. The PIR will need a live and neutral feed.

You have already been told what the problem almost certainly is by Nige F above, but I guess because you don't want to sort that out your looking for something easier to fix it ! :( SYSTEM FLUSH or at least start by getting the sludge out of the rads.

Why not try it on a piece of spare pipe to see if it works before you try it (and possibly cock up) on your existing installation !

Read my update here http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=615104#615104 and here http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=359170#359170 5 years now, still working fine, no problems.

This is not intended as instructions, so don't try to sue me if your roof caves in, but a few observations on what you suggest. Firstly the 2 forces that act on items: Compression is a force that acts to compress or shorten the thing it is acting on. Tension is a force that acts to expand or...

Exactly as onetap says, plus constantly re-oxygenating the water will corrode your entire system in no time (rust feeds on oxygen). Thats why the system treatment additives (amongst other things) de-oxygenate the water.

Sounds like the starter has gone, try a new one.

Anchor bolts; they come in various sizes from a well known shed. The thick end goes into a hole in the wall so that the threaded bolt is protruding. Drill hole in your timber and fit bolt through it, then as you tighten the nut (not shown in pic and you use a large washer on front of timber)...

From my own experience, if you are happy to leave them they will rot down underground and after about 3 years you can dig them out easily.

1) Buy some more screws 2) Yes

Homebase, less than £4.

Check where both ends of the cable go. If they are between ceiling roses (as opposed to maybe the supply emerging from an inaccessible place) then merely replace the cable and connector with one continuous piece of cable between the roses, as it should have been.