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OK so if I'm to replace the T junction, how do I clean up the existing pipework so as to get a good tight fit with the new Tee? Is there some kind of braid I need to rub the pipes down with?

Was thinking of replacing the T but was hoping there might be some kind of coupler available that would minimise my effort (don't like plumbing work, it's a skill that I was definitely not issued with!!! LOL).

Can you see my pics? Not sure I've done it right?

Just uploaded a couple of images. There might be enough room to fit a second isolation valve after the juction. But what size is the nut? Looking at the pic, you can see two pipes. The one with the isolation valve alone is fine and flexihose goes on no problem. But the pipe with the...

Hi Guys, Need a little help...... I'm in the process of replacing a kitchen tap. It's a monoblock type. It came with flexihoses (I'm assuming these are 15 mm??). The hot flex screws on to the hot feed isolation valve no problem. But the cold flex pipe needs to go on to a T junction...

So you install these for your customers?

You have WiFi enabled control of your heating system in your house?

OK that makes sense. Who makes these kits? Where do I buy from?

I'm still not getting this. I currently have a wireless stat that sends a signal up to the receiver in the airing cupboard. When stat set point is reached (and the timer is set to CH on), the heating comes on. But as my timer has failed, I want to replace it (and existing stat if necessary)...

I'm not after a wireless thermostat, I'm after a WiFi one. But from what I can see, the programmable WiFi enabled stats replace your traditional programmer. My concern is, what good would a thermostat be in an airing cupboard?That's why I think I'm misunderstanding things.

Heatmiser seem to make them too. But I'm confused. From what I can gather, the Wifi programmable thermostats replaces the need for a 7 day programmer. But my existing programmer is in the airing cupboard with thermostat downstairs in hallway. If I bin my existing failed Honeywell and replace...

It's an unvented system. I want to be able to switch the heating on and off via smartphone from anywhere in the house. Control of water would be nice too if possible. Not really sure on budget at this point as don't really know what I need. Maybe 150 pounds? Saw a couple of youtube vids...

Hi All, My programmer seems to have a fault. When the heating is called for, I'm finding that the Honywell is not firing the output to the valve motor. But if I give the controller a gentle tap with my finger (in the top right hand corner) where the relays are, the output kicks in and the...

Quick update: Had a play with this tonight. It looks as though I will be able to get two cables down to below the worktop without disrupting the tiles. I've pulled the old one out now and can get one new one through but two together is not quite happening yet. Will try again tomorrow. Looks...

If you look back to the pic (it's on it's side), you can see one of the spurs goes downwards towards the worktop. Basically, it's about six inches from the bottom of the back box to the worktop. I haven't tried yet but I'm 'anticipating' I'll be able to pull a cable through the six inches...

Good point, I'd have to WAGO the spur cables down to below the counter too. Would this be allowed? I'll try and put a diagram together.

OK I see what you mean. Getting a JB in one leg of the ring will be difficult as don't wont to disrupt the tiling. However, could I use a three way WAGO to extend one side of the ring to below the worktop? Once below the worktop I'd be able to implement the JB solution just mentioned. It...