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We use floor screeding sand, well compacted prior to screeding of, lay blocks then spread kiln dry sand over, run whacker plate over, sweep of.

We use flat bars, which are flexible, no need for any filling afterwards as they are thin gauge. You should be able to scource some from the scrap yard. Use a 6ft level, then lie the bars in, screed of and slide them along.

Dot and dab is no good inside a fire opening due to the heat from the stove, sand and cement will blow. You need a Heat resistant plaster such as Victas, or a Lime based render.

You will need a mini digger to excavate and heap it up close to the road for the grab lorry.

Needle gun.

Get a roofer in to scrape it of with a trowel and hoe, then give it a good sweep with a stiff broom.

It could very well be as suggested, delamination, or if the roofs have been changed to warm roof construction, a fitter in our area places 4x2 timbers to the perimeter with 100mm celotex inbetween, then a floating decking only fixed at the edges. We did have to renew a glass fibre roof last...

Thanks Peter, I was more concerned weather they had clutch, mass flywheel and gear box trouble like the Vivaros. Apparently the cam belt needs changing every 24k plus the auxillary belt at the same time or it could break and wrap around the timing belt. Also water is sussposed to come of the...

Im looking at an 09 peugot boxer 2.2 hdi, as Ive always had transits, which rust plus vivaros which are total rubbish, so now have the chance of a Peugeot, similar size to transit, but hopefully don't rust, it has 51k on the clock and is in vgc, but having never owned one does anyone have them...

What Xeon means is, 2 layers of felt over deck area, green mineral trims/upstands and detail work. You should have lead flashings, not the green mineral tucked into the joints. The guy has played to much heat on some areas.

That's a good price for that amount of work, is the Guy Hetas registered or issuing any certificates.

We always bed the dpc down on a mortar bed, then rub a brick along it.

A small angle grinder is fine, we use Makita with the mortar raking bits with no problems. ( looks a bit like a router bit ) and screws directly to the spindle. With the disc you wont get tight into the perps without cutting the brickwork.

It looks like existing built up layers of paint, the plastered walls might not have been mist coated prior to top coats.

I have never heard of any problems.

We use Firestone epdm and their glues with no problems.

Same as fmrc has said, plus you could change it to a warm roof construction.

Firestone do proper walkway pads. When you bolt the railings down fit some form flash around and over the foot.

As you are going to need a skip, see if the bricks can be loaded directly into the skip, they will easily fit in a 6 yd skip.

We have had a couple of similar jobs, one of which was a gable wall and bco were happy to apply 2no coats of Thompson water seal to the brickwork, instead of fitting trays, the brickwork and pointing was in good condition.