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I will presume this is a fan oven and the timer is not on auto. Turn the power off and remove the rear plate that covers the oven fan. You should see the element behind it, quite often if it has failed you will see obvious damage, splits, deformed, blown metal, flattened sections on the...

It can go into either I am assuming you mean a domestic dishwasher.

Depends on which tub seal you mean. Yes replace the bearing seal as well as that it the part that goes allowing water into the bearings causing them to rust which gets worn off and creates and abrasive powder which increases the damage to the bearings. Snowball effect. Its the most common...

I assume you mean the wires on the back of the lamp holder ? For a lamp it does not matter which way round the live and neutral go.

Is your timer set to automatic or manual this is the most common cause for these symptoms.

Usually if it goes off between 10 and 20 seconds without any heating it is because there is a fault with the HV side of the microwave circuit. Not parts that are recommended to touch as DIY as even switched off you could have up to 20000V on some parts. Fault could be with PCB/Power...

Posting the PNC helps us to identify your particular model. Did you have continuity on the live feed to the element, some ovens have a TOC's fitted (thermal overload protection). As a wild idea is the timer on auto or manual, if on auto the oven will not work when selected normally. Do...

Lots to check if it starts to heat then stops. Poor airflow through the condenser, has it been cleaned out properly and regularly Pump and float chamber at the rear clogged, does water get pumped up to the tank (simple to test) Fan or drum not rotating Heater element clogged, fluff...

The top element is usually the grill element as well and is visible. The bottom element is underneath the bottom and is usually accessed by removing the front and rear covers and quite often a bottom plate (not always do you need to do all three but many ovens do) You can test the bottom...

Ok a little confused Have you just fitted a new oven in. If so was it new or second hand.

There are several possible faults that can cause this but by far and away the most common is the freezer needing a full defrost. Switch off for min 24 hours, door to freezer open, keep an eye on the rear evaporator tray on or near the compressor to make sure it does not overflow.

Cement Boards are more typically used in damp areas (showers etc) to help alleviate this problem. Chip board work tops are typically damaged by the steam from opening the doors on dishwashers (wood swelling). To counter this you usually get a metal plate or sticky backed plastic or foil...

Sorry for the late reply. It sounds like the element has failed, Normally it is quite obvious especially if you have a white powder in the cavity (its quite often the mineral insulation from inside the element). The element may look distorted or have splits in it. They are not hard to...

Alot of the Stoves Cookers (mostly Range versions and some rebadged kit) I have looked at have had a pretty indifferent build quality definitely not commensurate with their costs. German stuff does not have the same quality now as it used to I assume you are referring to BSH (Bosch, Siemens...

Have you looked through this stuff. It sometimes has some useful info on AGA's and Rayburns. Since you do not say the model its a little bit difficult to give you any real info at the moment. http://www.rayburn-web.co.uk/directorylist.asp This place has some how to guides for Rayburns...

If you are unsure of what 'Fit for purpose' entails and how to go about doing something visit here. http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/shopping/consumer-rights-refunds-exchange

Posting the full product number can help us to help you as they use the same model number for several variations. First things first what does it do when reset and first started, where in a program does it get to. The more info provided the better the answer especially as error codes can...

You have steam vents attached to pipes on quite a few machines that lead to an evaporation area in the base, they are usually clipped or taped/cable tied in place. If you remove the blown suppressor (and usually change the fuse in the plug) you should be able to run the machine to test if...

posting more info like - model number, serial number and what the machine is will help get some decent answers

Some rotate a quarter to half turn then pull out others unscrew all the way. If you have something stopping the filter from rotating or pulling out it is best not to try and force it as I have seen many broken and they are a tadge costly for what they are. I usually get access to the pump...