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If its tripping the RCD it means there is an earth fault, Test the heating element and see if you have a short to earth on it with an insulation resistance tester, most of the time I see this with a frost free it is just the heater that has failed. Depends whether it is on a mechanical timer...

It will help us if you post the PNC for the machine as this is what identifies it not the model number. Normally if they are turned the wrong way it can strip the mechanism in the timer or break part of the control knob. Either way it is generally a replacement part as opposed to a re-alignment.

Several things you can try fairly quickly if you have the kit and knowledge If you have a plug in type power monitor you can plug the washing machine into it and once it has done the first rinse cycle and drained it will fill and you can look to see if it is drawing more power (round about...

Sounds like a blocked or stalled impeller on the main circulation pump, did you remove the pump to check it

Have both the fridge and freezer stopped cooling. Typical problems with frost frees are they need a defrost every now and then as ice builds up where it should not. First thing to try usually is to do a full defrost for 24 hours (the ice is typically behind a panel so you can see it) keep...

does it heat up, at the end of the cycle when you open the door does steam come out or is the cavity hot and crockery dry.

check the contacts inside the lamp fitting, they can bend or break or for a loose wire (can yu check for 240v on the contacts)

Only cost effective solutions we have done with these is if the PCB has failed and its usually on the defrost part is to replace the PCB, or if the fan is failing and replace the fan As I said though due to the return rate we see we cant stand em. We dont re gas them anymore as it was not...

Remove the lid and you can gain access (all be it a tight fit) to the dispenser hose, give it a few squeezes and see if you can feel a build up of un-disolved wash powder if so that and flushing through with some warm water may clear it. On some you have enough room to remove it and clean it...

Is it stuck on low heat or high heat. Easiest way to check if the heater is all working correctly is to get a plug in power meter and see if it is drawing around 1300 or 2500 watts. They look like this...

What does it do Drain, fill, agitate does it not start at all or halt in the program. Posting the model and PNC for the machine helps us to help you as well. The more info you can give the more likely it is that you can be helped

Remove the filter and run it, does the condenser grill at the rear freeze up at all, it should then go onto a defrost cycle which allows it to defrost and the water then runs into the collection tank or out the rear outlet pipe if used.

Ebac 2000 series have a few problems Typically the fan fails (turns slow or is stuck) The condensor stops defrosting the matrix gets clogged with dust etc PCB fails Compressor mounting bolts and rubbers fail allowing the base of the compressor to rub on the base. fill level cut out arm...

Silicone sealant like fernox LX from plumbing suppliers. It will set in water and is heat resistant (used to repair hot and cold water pipes)

Usually on the top left hand side of the drum.

thats the pressure pipe on the pressure switch. Blow into the switch you should hear some clicks. Blow into the pipe and you should hear it in the drum blowing free. Check the pipe has no holes and is attached at each end.

I take it you are saying the machine does not heat water during the wash cycle and it does not heat the air during the drying cycle. How do you know the water does not heat up ?.

The top comes off, two or three screws at the rear

Stuck drums usually caused by fluff or rubbish build up round the felt seal. Especially where bearing pads are. Not done a beko rebuild so not sure on layout for further help.

The pump is attached to the back of the filter underneath the machine. Tip the machine back against a wall or on some blocks and you can access it from the base.