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That just gives workers the right to not be forced to work more than 48 hours a week by their employer. They have every right to work longer hours should they so wish. It amazes me that anyone would think taking away workers' rights is a good thing. Unless, of course you would like to exploit...

I was talking about image 3.

The bricks look like blue engineering bricks so should be fine below DPC. Has the damaged brick spalled or is it some other kind of damage? At a guess I reckon there may have been an extension at some point which would explain the vertical joint rather than the stretcher bond elsewhere...

£450 including delivery (I’ve got to fit it). So that’s no pocket money for my boy for the foreseeable future

Who said the second image is more concerning? Did the surveyor recommend a structural report? Wouldn’t be a bad idea either way as they may well be able to see something that we can’t from a couple of photos. Plus they have the relevant insurances etc. You could tooth in some new bricks but if...

Unlikely to be subsidence. Cracks where extensions meet original buildings are common for a number of reasons including settlement, thermal, shrinkage, and subsidence or heave. The last two are of most concern but are usually obvious as the cracks are larger at the top or bottom and not of a...

DPC generally 150mm above external ground level and at FFL. So looks about right. Yes, slope away from house and if towards pavement you’ll need a linear drain at the junction and a soak away. Unless you use permeable paving…

But it’s a shorter beam (3.5m against the near 6m the builder was suggesting), so less load to the 665mm section of wall, plus the long section of masonry to the far side should deal with the lateral loads. So more likely to work than the builder’s proposal, but still not guaranteed without some...

Maybe. All depends on the loads and what is carrying them. Old or new masonry, solid or cavity wall. You’ll need to ask your structural engineer. Just remember your SE has the training, knows the regs, and has done the calcs. They’ll most likely be happy to explain their rationale if you ask them.

If the engineer designed columns they would also design pad foundations, or alternatively a box frame where the base beam essentially spreads the column load back along the existing foundation. No base beam, no load spread. And no, the 665mm minimum is dependant on a whole host of factors -...

The SE is probably also concerned about lateral stability and doesn't want to remove too much of the masonry as the stability of the building will be compromised. It's just a beam, right, no columns? If so your SE may be correct, as the load from the beam is spread over a reduced area so the...

For aggregate blocks, NHBC recommend, and most manufacturers state, that 7.3N blocks should be used below DPC. Often, 3.6N AAC (Thermalite) blocks are rated fo be used below DPC, but it also depends on the loads applied - usually not an issue for two storey domestic dwellings if this is the...

Very common above windows due to loading stresses and thermal action. Common in new housing to include bed joint reinforcement above and below openings to mitigate this risk. Looks very minor and no evidence of a failed lintel or movement elsewhere so most likely not a concern but your surveyor...

Rake out the joint and install a compressible strip and finish with polysulphide sealant.

With regard to corrosion do you know what protection the beam currently has? It looks like it’s painted but might be galvanised underneath. Either way, I’d give it a couple of coats of protective coating, although if it’s going to be covered by a canopy it won’t be fully exposed to the elements...

Do you get along with your neighbour? Either way, I’d politely express my sympathy for their problem and tell them that you understand the cracking must be very upsetting for them. However, I’d also tell them that you would be happy to pass on to your insurance company the structural engineer’s...

You also probably won’t have any insulation in the floor above.

I was assuming he was talking about regularised timber which comes in at about 94mm, and will be more of an issue if he can’t get true 100x50.

Buy some metric 50x125 and cut them down to size with your trusty circular saw :unsure: Or pack out to the correct level with some thin strips of ply?

Can you drop the soil pipe below floor level and box in? Alternatively you could replace the trimmer with a 254x102 UB and get it designed for a 130mm diameter opening. You would need to give it a decent bearing and probably need to provide some stiffeners either side of the opening.