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pump has worked in the past im guesing so the size should be ok. your pump may have slowed down due to wear, your boiler may have a problem with corrosion, the stat or something like a combustion or flue issue. when was the boiler last serviced?

One thing to remember is flushing the system is not only done just to protect the new appliance, it's also done to help ensure the system works correctly. Why have a modern energy efficient boiler then leave it running a system that is very inefficient at emitting the energy.

Both can terminate over a drain but they need to be separate. Your discharge should not have any water dribbling out unless there is a fault. The condense should be 1.25 inch pushfit to stop it freezing up

Should be able to get a 32mm x 15 reducing set for a 32mm coupler. If not then a 32x22 one.

citric acid would be ok, i use stronger acids but you have to be very careful, full face mask recommended.

for runs para to joist you have to clip plastic every 300mm so getting a board up every 300mm is alot more work than a length of copper and a board in the middle of its length. for running though joists and from below the plastic is faster aslong as you can get into the drill zone of the joist.

the cheapest option is to stop the kids showering at the same time :)

acid if there is no alu parts in the system. the plate hex will need removing and cleaning with a strong chemical and lots of flushing under a tap. if your boiler case forms part of the combustion seals then you need a gas safe engineer to remove the plate.

your first position was to close to the air brick vent anyway, tell anybody who asks that all you have done is changed the box as the old one was damaged. Any issues with existing supply should get reported and sorted for no charge.

Plumbers mait is great but not to what your thinking of using if for. Just tighten the jubilee clip

As suggested dynamic flow rate is key. As most taps are mixers your flow rate will be shared and an oversized boiler will be a waste. Cold to boiler as first connection after stop tap will probably help some.

The cylinder manufacturer should be consulted to e sure they are happy with what's connected to it. The who install must meet part J,L and G of building regs.

dont run waste pipes through joists, along is fine. best solution would be to install drain outside to new bathroom postion.

just fit a hot and cold outside tap and make a shower hose to fit them.

not much you can do apart from putting a board/ ply floor in at floor level. any faulse panel would need to be removable for emergency access to the gas cock and cut out.

bad idea really unless you are going to upgrade your gas meter/supply. go for the unvented cylinder option, design a good sized cupboard into the plans.

id be supprised if you can get a new head even the right make as they have probably redesigned it to be cheaper by now.

what does the filters instructions say about said waste?

follow the plastic pipe manufacturers guide for pipe sizing. 14m is probably to far really for 10mm pex which has a inside of about 6-7mm. 15mm well lagged min would be my guess.

its unlikely to cause a problem mixing chemicals, some makes have 2 or more inhibitor chemicals in them and almost all of them have them same 2-3 chemicals in them. if you want to be 100% sure then drain down and refill. remember that most systems that have a few double rads may need more than...