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I need to bed some ridge and verge tiles, never done it before, but I was thinking to use the same mix I used for stuccoing (rendering?), which was 1 part cement, 1 part lime, and 3 parts sand by volume. I was also thinking to put a wee bit of SBR in it to aid in adhesion. Does this sound...

I am roofing my workshop with these as they match our house: https://www.wienerberger.co.uk/product-range/roof/tempest-44-natural-red.html They have two little holes at the top to screw into the battens. On our current roof from the 30s, they are not nailed down at all. Having said that...

I am not particularly fond of depending on plastic clips to hold anything down, I can't imagine that they are going to last as long as mortar. This is why I was thinking about using a mortar plus some stainless clips as well. It seems they are hard to find, I suppose a guy could make some.

I want to waterproof the concrete part of the walls down to the footing, preferably on the outside. The slab has plastic under it so that is not an issue. In Canada when I lived there they used to waterproof basements with tar on the outside, but only up to ground level, and then some kind of...

I have a wood frame outbuilding that sits on a concrete foundation that comes out of the ground around 30cm. I would like to waterproof the concrete on the outside including the part below the ground to the footing. Is there some kind of cement-based tanking that one can trowel on like render...

I am doing a roof on my workshop and trying to decide between a wet and dry system for the ridge. It seems plastic never lasts as long as they say it will, so I am leaning toward a wet install. Are there any clips (stainless) that can be used to mechanically hold down the tiles, and then...

When I was in Germany, I noticed that most of the ridge tiles were tapered, so that one fits into the next. On the skinny end there is often a hole for a screw at the top, and sometimes there is also a clip attached that comes out from under the big end. These would have a dry fit type seal...

By "Fully TRV system" there could be another possibility, that is a system with no room thermostat and TRVs on all the radiators. This can work with a thermal store where the store water is always hot, and the boiler is controlled by a cylinder stat. Then you can put TRVs on all the rads, and...

The OP said they are not comfortable with an unvented, so there is really no other option than a thermal store if you want mains pressure hot water, unless they install a combi. You are correct in that most thermal stores have too small an exchanger to deliver decent hot water unless they are...

I like thermal stores, but is there a reason you don't want an unvented cylinder? Not sure why you are thinking you need to raise the header tank, are you developing the loft?

I have run plaster using the circle trick, but not in place on a ceiling, just to make a model for a mold. I am not sure I could run any amount of it on a ceiling. I have only done it by casting, and then gluing/screwing on to the walls or ceilings. I have mostly used the polystyrene cornices...

Does anyone here make molds to cast ornamental plasterwork? I have mostly used latex which is brushed on in layers, but the molds tend to shrink quite a bit when they cure, and it distorts the casts. The liquid latex is pretty cheap though. Has anyone tried any of the other molding...

By "items of plasterwork" I mean the smaller pieces in the photo. In the photo all of the plaster decoration was cast in pieces in latex molds. The large cornice is held up with screws, but the smaller pieces are just stuck on with drywall taping compound. Underneath the walls and ceiling are...

My experience as a DIY. 1) If you wet with a diluted PVA, say 6:1, it will take longer to dry and then the bonding coat should not dry out too fast and crack. After you apply the diluted PVA, if it dries out right away, apply some more. 2) I prefer to do the final skim coat in a uniform...

What is the best way to "glue" small items of plasterwork to walls and ceilings? In Canada I used drywall taping compound, or all-purpose compound with a little PVA mixed in. This was on drywall, whereas in the UK it is more damp, and the walls are plaster. So I was wondering how it is done here.

Glad you found a way. I have goo on my ceiling I need to get rid of. But to answer your first question, people do it because it is easier than making the walls smooth and flat.

Normally you would run 22mm main flow and return, and then have 15mm circuits off that feeding 2 or 3 rads each. Is that possible? You wouldn't have to replace all the 15mm, just enough to have a path back to the boiler from the last spur.

I have some walls that need skim coating because wall paper was removed and bits of finish plaster have fallen out. In places the base coat has also fallen away. I was going to PVA the walls and fill any deep holes with bonding plaster, and then skim coat the lot. What is best for skimming to...

My problem is electronic stuff. I have read that a switching power supply can leak up 3.5mA. I am looking at 8 of them in my livingroom alone. We have too many computers.

Yeah I meant inspect. Which means practically you cannot bond to the radiator pipes as it would be hidden under the floor. For the dual earth wire I suppose you could do it by having each earth in/out connected to the same terminal in each socket, with the two earth feeds using the two...