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Having looked again at the existing pipework, I have decided that the best/easiest solution will be to cut the existing pipework in the middle of the horizontal section at the top. I can then fabricate a new extension that will start with a short horizontal piece, then bend downwards at an angle...

Thanks - I was hoping not. How far below the lid towards the water level should it extend - is it better to err on the side of keeping the end as far away from the water as possible? In the few days that the lid has been in place, I'm finding worrying signs of water on the outside of the lid...

In my loft there is a 25-gallon circular cold-water tank, at least 40 years old. I've just fitted it with a new lid - it never had one before, just the insulation jacket stretched over it. There is a hole in the lid for the 'vent pipe' (correct term???) from the HW cylinder in the room below...

Glue? I took a look at the 'training video' from HDSharman and that seemed to suggest that the overlaps etc were heat-sealed by what looked like a giant soldering iron. Did I get that wrong? Looking at that video, and the photo on the early posting, and having seen a bit more of the 'work in...

I wish I had found this topic earlier! My house is one of a pair of semis with Finlock gutters, which drain out at my neighbour's end. There has been a lot of leaking from the 'stop end' block on my house for quite some while, but recently the problem has spread to the adjacent 2 or 3 mortar...

The supply is TT. However, my house is at the end of a 'dairy-chain' of 3 houses, rather than direct from the main cable in the road, so it is not known if the cable sheath in fact has a continuous connection at the intervening houses. The WPD's engineer did go to check, but I don't think that...

Well, I got in touch with the 'energy supplier' EDF and, as expected, they claimed that it was the responsibility of the DNO. However the DNO claims that the relevant part of its business was sold off to SEC (who now?) some years ago and disclaim any responsibility for it. Yet, at the same time...

I have written back to the DNO for clarification :) It seems odd to me that they will accept responsibility for changing it to an isolator switch, but NOT to a RCD. The only difference that I can see is that the RCD would involve connection to the earthing rod, of which the DNO disclaims...

A man came yesterday from the DNO (Western Power Distribution) to look at my VOELCD...... He agreed that it had the seals and labels to show that it had been installed originally by SWEB. However, he said that WPD would not replace it because they "did not have the electricians"! Yet at the...

I can see the logic in that suggestion, but.....other than the fact that the socket is outside, what difference is there from any other "socket on a spur" arrangement? Assuming that the external socket has a good IP rating and is robust, thereby avoiding water or physical damage, is it at any...

Looking at the replacement cable reels which some of you have kindly suggested, and others that I have seen in the last few days, they seem to vary between 10A and 13A capacity. In the past I have always erred on the side of caution, and future-proofing, and opted for 13A capacity. No doubt...

Yes - red, black and green. As an after-thought, I checked the plug + connector on my own lead, and found that to be PVC with brown, blue and yellow/green. I know that I bought that in 1980!

A very good and pertinent question - but until I master psychic skills, not one that I can answer :wink: But, as a rough guess, I would suspect at least 20 years ago. ...except that, if it not necessary to throw the old ones away, then I'd rather use the £34 for something else! When I...

Ah...my number one rule outdoors, always use a plug-in RCD at the house/shed/garage socket and then plug the extension lead into that. (I don't need these leads for indoors, much too long and become a trip hazard!, I have a modern shorter one for that purpose.)

Amongst the equipment which I inherited from my late father were a couple of 13A 3-core extension leads - one about 45' long, the other 75', so quite useful in my long garden! I checked them carefully for any sign of mechanical damage and also re-made the connections into the plugs and sockets...

I could live with that :-) To add a bit more to this (something which I did not mention originally, in order to keep the question ‘simple’) in actual fact the tails from the VOELCD go to a sealed terminal block (which originally had a DNO’s lead seal on it, suggesting that they may have...

Thanks for the advice and I will try to follow up the DNO in due course. What I am NOT clear about tho', so please bear with my ignorance, is WHY - apparently - replacing just the VOELCD with a RCD is not workeable and needs the CU replaced instead? I'm trying to minimise the potential...

In what way would that affect changing the VOELCD please? There is a problem with that suggestion..... Most of the houses in my road seem to have individual feed cables from the main supply cable in the road. However my house is one of a group of 3 set back from the road some distance, so...

The electrical installation in my house was re-wired about 20-odd years ago and appears still to be in good order. The energy supply company replaced the old black meter by a digital 'white box' some years ago, but that has been the only change. All circuits are supplied through an 8-way...