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You're right about the crimp tool - you only need it for putting plugs onto the end of a cable. I'd recommend installing cat 6 UTP, as the cost difference between it and cat5e is minimal, and it guarantees a relatively future proof install that is guaranteed to work with gigabit and perhaps even...

Weather compensation is dependant on the boiler, so unless you're aware of what boiler the customer is going to fit, you won't be able to install all of the controls. It may also be worth asking on the plumbing forum, as I have a feeling that it's more efficient to run weather compensation...

If the colour changing kit can't do white then, personally, I'd choose the warm white fittings. Anything else will be a novelty unless you have a colour scheme that really demands exotic lighting.

I wouldn't call adjusting the spacing of the heating element 'a bodge'. As long as you stick to the manufacturer's instructions and don't space at less than 50mm, it will work fine, and will indeed heat the floor quicker. It'll be a pain to remove it all from the mat of course, and it is for...

Colour changing lights are generally tacky. The only way I imagine you could make it look reasonable is to install a system that will allow you to set the lights to a static colour of your choice. However, that's going to be a lot more expensive than your typical colour changing fittings.

Yup. It's hard to say Consumer Unit without sounding a pedantic git, unless in the company of fellow electrical nerds, of course. Same with lamps and bulbs.

Replace the compression fittings with push-fit? I'll get my coat.

Can't see how it's greedy. Surely it's irrelevant whether the electricity is generated on commercial or domestic premises? It's all renewables either way.

Unfortunately it's a government-devised scheme that pays you far more for the energy you generate than it's worth, even if you consume it rather than exporting to the grid. It's supposed to increase the uptake of renewables, but the money that funds these feed-in-tariffs is ultimately paid by...

If your 16A outlet has been properly installed then it should already be controlled upstream by a 16A protective device (or perhaps 20A at most, though more unusual). You should still be careful to avoid overloading the outlet, as a 16A OCPD isn't going to trip the second you draw more than 16A...

If you must repair, it might be achievable by finding a size of rigid tube that will fit the inner diameter of the pipe, and then securing with hose clamps. I've never actually had an appliance with an aqua-stop built in - presumably it's designed to cut off the water supply in the event of...

What's a washing machine tube? :| If it's the water supply hose, why not just buy a complete replacement? If it's internal to the machine, you would be best to find a proper replacement part.

When you originally did the job, did you fill the bath with water during application and drying of the sealant? If not, there's a good chance that it's shifted since then, hence the leaks. I haven't really researched the cladding you used, but presumably it's completely watertight, and what...

The problem is that, without seeing the job, nobody here can accurately answer that question. The price may have been reasonable, or maybe it wasn't - it would depend whether he genuinely spent 5 hours fault finding and purchasing parts, or if most of that time was spent twiddling thumbs...

I'm not sure how/why you would use Henley blocks. Where will the CPCs go? How will you securely terminate the conductors while maintaining the outer sheath until the cable enters the box? If you can find a way to successfully split the shower supply post-isolator and bring a conductor of...

"314.1 Every installation shall be divided into circuits, as necessary, to (i) avoid hazards and minimize inconvenience in the event of a fault (iii) take account of danger that may arise from the failure of a single circuit such as a lighting circuit" That in mind, if you're happy to sign...

You'd think I would have learned by now the tendency on this forum to pick up on the slightest hint of ambiguity, but obviously not :roll: To remove any confusion, I was/am referring to BS7671 314.1

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Probably not dangerous (although without being there to inspect the entire installation, nobody can say for sure), but it isn't compliant in that you have a single point of failure for the entire installation. As you've found out, it's quite an inconvenience if nothing else. The barn would have...

If you pulled through a new cord at the same time as your signal wires, I can't really see how this could have happened. It's generally more of a problem if subsequent cables are fed through a duct/conduit with a semi-rigid snake or draw tape, when they will simply take the route of least...