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Unfortunately that doesn't really prove a lot, as it could still be a problem with the pump or a leak in the pipework following the pump. As other posters have said before, you need to isolate the pipes going out of the pump if you want to work out where the problem lies.

Exactly which valves did you turn off? Were they before or after the pump?

You say your oil boiler provides on demand hot water, so presumably it's a combi. If that's the case, I can't see how you can be running what appears to be an unvented cylinder side-by-side with a combi, unless each system feeds a separate set of outlets. Care to elaborate? If the cylinder in...

Regardless of who is right, it's surely not difficult to maintain pressure during screed laying and drying, so why the big fuss? Might as well play it safe!

I'm sorry but this is just typical rubbish spouted from someone who clearly has never used these products. There is no problem playing music at the same time as browsing the web on either the iPad or iPhone. Multitasking has been on the iPad since iOS 4.2. I think you will find that the price is...

Without a shadow of a doubt, El Toro at Six Flags Great Adventure, NJ. I think Diamondback at Kings Island, OH would be in close second, purely for the surprise element when it gets boosted underneath the station. Perhaps it'd get boring after riding it a few times, though. I've been on...

Read through all the posts in this thread and you'll see that all your questions have already been answered. If you still don't understand, it's probably best just to accept that it works, and there's no need for you to worry about it.

It is part of the central heating system, because CH comprises many things besides radiators. The cylinder coil, radiators, pipework and boiler are ALL parts of the central heating system.

And each valve has an in and an out port, yes? They wouldn't be much use if they only had a single port. Pretty much. The valves are effectively just electrically controlled taps, allowing the programmer to control whether the hot water in the system gets directed to the radiators, cylinder...

The coil and CH are two separate zones controlled by 2-port valves, or so would seem to be the case here. Heating the cylinder coil does not mean that the radiators need to be on, and vice versa.

I think a good start would be to check that the heaters aren't being powered during peak rate periods. This will be easy enough to do by leaving one of the heaters switched off for long enough to allow it to cool, then turning it back on during an on-peak period and making sure it doesn't start...

If you're distributing 230v with the transformers located at each branch then yes, 1.5mmsq will be fine.

This is very basic electrical theory. Losses excepted, primary watts = secondary watts. The power does NOT change across the transformer. If your theory were correct then we'd all be running ELV lighting, as we'd be getting watts for nothing on the secondary of the transformer!

I wouldn't install any smaller than 6mmsq 3-core, although if you can stretch to 10mmsq then you may as well. Even better would be to run a duct, so that an electrician can select and pull through the correct size cable for you in the future. Make sure you do your research and bury it at the...

Is the switch in your first picture (sparks work) really just a switch, or is it a switched FCU? If it's the former, what he's done is unsafe and will need rectifying. Photos would help.

Where does it say that :?:

I was thinking more alone the lines of an inline centrifugal fan that sits between two pieces of duct, then comes out via a grille in the bathroom ceiling. However, if you would prefer to mount it on an external wall, a duct fan isn't going to be much use to you. The fan you've linked to will...

So what about installations in huge commercial premises and the like?

Personally, I'd buy a ducted centrifugal fan and a separate humidistat. That way, you'll get the benefit of less noise (as you can mount the fan some distance from the vent), it'll look nicer, and you'll get better extraction rates than an axial fan thanks to higher static pressure.

You could always use a 1G metalclad box + 20A DP switch, with compression glands for the incoming and outgoing cables. It's not going to be ideal as you won't be able to achieve an acceptable IP rating without covering the mounting holes on the rear, but regs aside, I think you'd have to judge...