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I don't see why it would be unsafe if used as intended. If you leave the kitchen to answer the door while leaving the hob on full pelt with a pressure cooker on top, then that's your own fault. After all, would you do the same thing with a chip pan?

Probably about £70 for an immersion and thermostat, plus whatever your plumber charges for fitting. I'm not sure whether or not you're allowed to perform a like-for-like swap of parts such as the immersion on an unvented cylinder without a G3 cert, but I'm sure somebody here can answer that for...

Sure, I don't see why not, as it doesn't sound as if there's any risk of mechanical damage. However, you may find something like HiTuf a little easier to dress, as it tends to retain its shape better than rubber flex and with fewer clips.

There is no need to attempt resetting the immersion stat with the power on, it wont make any difference. If you have cold water coming from the hot taps, you can be pretty sure the cylinder isn't empty. Your best bet would be to buy a multimeter or, even better, a 2-pole voltage detector, and...

Personally I'd put it under the stairs for access, as it'd be a bit of a pain to have to go into the loft every time you want to check your modem or restart the router. That said, I think you'll find that most simple networking kit, i.e. switches, APs, etc will work just fine within the...

It will be absolutely fine run alongside the coax.

As you'll need a contactor to control the shower anyway, just add a set of NC auxiliary contacts to activate a timer that will provide a 30 second 'on' period, and use the NC contacts of the timer relay to lock out the supply to the contactor coil. This should work as long as the timer relay...

Probably not - this PDF document has some information on the minimum required bend radius for a given size of pipe. I find it hard to believe you can't find a route that involves less corners - like chasing the floor, or drilling holes through the walls rather than piping round them, or going...

I assume the word 'impedance' should actually have been 'impending', although it's not an ideal drop-in replacement without rearranging the rest of the sentence.

I have exactly the same setup with 2 bells and an illuminated push, and it works just fine. There's no reason why it shouldn't, if wired as per your first diagram. Your attempt at the second setup may have put the push directly across the transformer's output, which certainly wouldn't do the...

Perhaps you should go wired? And besides, following a similar logic to yours, I can't get a yacht (because I can't afford one, and in fact I don't want one, but devils advocate and all...), so I guess it would be OK for me to steal one? After all, rich people don't really deserve yachts - they...

Monkeh, gotta agree with Ban-All-Sheds on this one. It's not regulated spectrum, so it's rather unfair that others should have to suffer simply because you believe that your use of the spectrum is more important than theirs. If you want guaranteed bandwidth, move onto a licensed band and buy new...

As we've said time and time over, a) and b) would never have been an option, as once you open up a leak with pressure testing, going back to gravity wont do anything to seal it.

Only any use if you can turn up the radios on both ends, though. If you can't up the power beyond the legal limits on your mobile phone or laptop, for example, then you're still limited by the receive sensitivity of the AP. I'd suggest that rather than take the above approach, anyone...

Yes, Philips have been making them for a couple of years, and the cheap Far East manufacturers have been knocking them out for a little longer than that.

None, as I hate wireless with a passion. I use it for my laptop and phone, but other than that, it's not for me. Besides, unless there are some radical developments in the world of wireless, a wired connection is going to be an order of magnitude faster and more reliable for the foreseeable future.

I guess I do have more ports than the average home network, but that isn't to say they are all in use. For example, I'll always fit a double outlet even, even when I only need a single. As more and more devices become network ready, as is the case with TVs, blu-ray players, consoles, IP phones...

The RF output is disabled if you're using the HD connection, otherwise it is enabled, and the RF output channel can be changed in the engineer's menu. It's rather annoying, and they have even removed any possibility of allowing simultaneous HD and SD output by disabling the SCART outputs when HD...

I could have done with knowing that a couple of months ago when I upgraded the patch panel at home. I specifically wanted a high density 48-port 1U design, and it ended up setting me back nearly £70 just for a standard punchdown system.

Simon, have you got a link to more information on those panels? I've used coupler panels in the past, but they tend to cost at least twice as much as punchdown panels, and they also introduce an extra unnecessary joint.