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Thanks for comprehensive input. The EV charging is bottom of the priority list so I'll park that. I wasn't anticipating separate CU but a C/O switch connected top existing CUs - understand that needs to be sized for mains supply (so 100-125A) not just for genny.

I'll try and work through all that but is the worst case fall back to (manually) disconnect the DNO earth and connect the local/TT earth? If so, at least I know the worst case fall back. Thanks for all your input BTW.

Hmm. So is the answer, when using the genny, to isolate/disconnect the DNO earth from the MET and connect the local earth? Is there a switch one could use to do that?

Ha! My car's an EV. It does have 100kWh battery capacity so equivalent to 20 hours on a 5kW genny. But what do I do when the car battery's discharged?

Yes, you're quite right on the earthing arrangement. The DNO earth is TN-C-S as you surmised. I had thought of installing an earth rod in the operating location and I would make the connection if the need to use the genny arises. Not foolproof but I'm not looking to achieve that,

First of all, I hope readers will understand the reasons for the length of this post. I am seeking advice from professional sparkies, being qualified and experienced in ways that I am not, so I feel it necessary to provide a minimum amount of information to allow any comments and advice...

Well thanks in part to the encouragement from pros on here I tried to loosen it off again and succeeded. Getting it moving with an adjustable spanner was really tricky because it kept slipping off. The brainwave I had was to use a socket (12mm was perfect) on the end of a short extension bar...

Sorry that wasn't clear. Yes, the minimum on time can be set between 1 and 5 minutes.

My heating system is controlled by Honeywell T6 programmable thermostats. Looking for input on the what 'minimum on time' to set. The default is (I think) 1 minute and the maximum is 5 minutes. Any comments on pros and cons on this question? The boiler is (2x) Potterton Suprima 80, about...

Thanks for suggestion but don't follow why I need a freezing kit. I can isolate the Megaflow and then drain down the top of the tank quite easily (I do that regularly to regenerate the air gap). Am I missing something? BTW, the gland nut turns easily, it's the handle' that's seized.

Thanks for all that. Loosening off the gland nut was tried (that's what made it leak so I could make the emergency call out!) but didn't help. I think I'll buy a replacement and experiment on what is needed to crack the body (headworks as you called it). If that seems okay, I'll drain down...

Here's a pic. The seized one is on the left. The centre one was leaking some time ago but just needed the gland nut to be nipped up. If I decided to replace all three with lever valves, would they all open and close independently without clashing?

I have a seized 22mm stopcock (stuck in open position) on the HW feed from a Megaflo cylinder to a bathroom. After trying (and failing) to shift it myself, it started leaking from the gland nut, so I called on my home emergency cover to get some professional help to see if a pro could (a) stop...

Thanks. Actually the boiler service guy just called me and said it's something to with the distance between the boiler and the hot water cylinder (a Megaflow), which is some distance away - boiler is in basement garage and cylinder is in first floor cupboard. Could it be something to do with...

The pic below shows a stat of some sort fitted to the flow pipe from my boiler. The electrical flex goes to a junction box where boiler controls enter/exit from boilers and various room or hot water stats. The system was fitted 20+ years ago. I've never been sure what the purposes of this...

I have removed a radiator that is (for now) unwanted/unused to free up the wall space. I have capped off the TRV with a maintenance cap and closed the lockshield (standard 15mm angle valves) but want to cap the rad side of the valves as well. I assume that I want one of these...

Pics below are of light fitting in a rented flat that my daughter is using at uni, several hundred miles from me. The lamp needs replacing but she can't remove the cover/diffuser. It looks to me as though it just clips on and can be released by a tool/lever in the slot pictured, which she has...

Thanks both. What does the anode check test for and is there really any reason it can't be DIY (I know the MI says "qualified technician" but...). I assume remove, clean with wire brush, replace if 50% or more worn?

Thanks for clarification. I thought SWA would probably be needed but thought I would ask someone familar with regs. I can't see why a CU would be required but again, thought I should check.

I have built a small garden toilet ~2m away from the house. The builder has laid flexible ducting from an external power socket, that is fed from from an RCD protected CB on the main CU via a RFC, to teh inside of the building. I will want to run a light or two (LEDs) and a small 2kW water...