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See the pictures in my gallery.

You could always go bottom entry by hanging a narrowrr one on the wall higher and using elbows. Just another option.

3/4" brass end caps. About 2 quid each. Normally come with a rubber seal inside them.

Not if its drained down it wont. If its refilled and valves shut off where the radiator was it'll be fine.

Make sure both valves are open. Cant see the pics but i would imagine one of them is closed.

Cheers mate. Iv got a bosch multitool, what blade would you recommend? They are obviously narrow blades so to cut down the length of a 2400mm panel face-on can't be easy to line up each cut? Il be doing soffits/fascias come Spring so dont mind investing....

What multi cutter?

Cheers mate. Ive used masking tape on it and will try wd40. Its just feels like im ripping through it rather than sawing.

Can someone recommend me a hand saw for upvc shower panels. Ive got a 14tpi Spear & Jackson Predator uPVC saw but its still not gliding through particularly easily on practice off-cuts. The shower panels seem to be flexing too much. I can probably make do with the predator but if someone knows...

You've got a TRV there now so it'll be fine to include a new one. When choosing valves you need to make sure the connection to the existing pipe work is 8mm and 15mm after the valve. Bare in mind also that a 500mm wide towel radiator doesn't have 500mm pipe centres. Typically it would have...

What you propose sounds fine to me. Towel radiator with 500 pipe centres, straight valves 8mm to 15mm such as https://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/evolve-straight-8mm-radiator-valve?___store=default&gclid=CK-70Y7hksoCFYPnwgodxUwLSQ#.VovCnhBFDqA But prettier. You'll need to isolate the pipework...

Photo please.

I did something similar and the towel radiator kicks out much more heat than the tiny radiator that was there. I went for a narrower towel radiator than the pipe centres so that I didn't need to alter plumbing. See here http://www.diynot.com/diy/media/albums/downstairs-toilet.25501/

Are any of the toilets or anything fed from the cold water tank? Maybe one of them was flushed not long before you heard a drip. Its not uncommon for them to drip ever so slightly for a little while after refilling. Don't use anything for an hour and recheck.

A decent solid wood floor will withstand traffic as well as anything. You can of course sand and restain too (many times assuming its proper solid wood). It should last a lifetime. I wouldn't bother with engineered wood floors (top layer) tho, can't see the point.

As above but I'd also fit the new longer horizontal pipe last after all the sections to the right of it.

It would be normal to tile and then fix other things.

Are these pipes live? That copper pipe at floor board level looks a bit ropey to me as a DIYer. If there is a floor below I think i'd drain.

Tbh if your internals go, you'll have damage anyway regardless of that cover. It also won't make good. My equivalent insurance (as well as decent general home insurance) is knowing my stopcock works, some 15mm and 22mm pipe, a pipe cutter and some compression couplers. Planes don't suddenly...

Bleeding radiators is not a DIY operation? Blooming eck, I better stop refitting bathrooms & installing towel radiators and new showers then in case the world implodes on itself.