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I was just expecting to see something way bigger when I looked at the photos. Once you've tiled, that'll take away 10-11mm depending on tiles/adhesive. I'd seal, tile and seal.

You call that a gap!

Its per year. Its basically cover from the street to your stopcock. They scare you with images of JCBs digging up your front lawn and the associated costs. I dont believe it covers making good afterwards though. Personally ive never bothered but ive seen the flyers.

Depends how easily they come off and how bothered you are what the end product looks like. Its quite easy to bend the frames by accident. They will be screwed and sealed to the walls and you will have to prise them away from the sealant (when the screws are out) which can bend them.

Its up to you but you are storing up problems for the future with that approach. I reckon there'll be a fair amount of damp behind them tiles and you'll basically seal it in by boarding over.

Looking at those latest pictures there doesnt really seem to be a good reason to have such a gap as it is a two wall enclosure. It all needs redoing.... Personally i would remove tiles. The only bit that is really salvageable is perhaps the tray which you can butt up tight to the wall...

I just think thats a huge gap to fill. Im not a pro, i would do it myself. Wait for a few opinions on here. Its difficult to tell without seeing the room, dimensions of the tray, what the walls are made of etc... but id get some shower panels and attach them to the walls built out so they...

Imo you would be better off either buying a bigger tray and under cutting the walls if needs be or building out the enclosure walls. Either way you'll need to retile or finish. Any other way such as resealing is a bodge that will ultimately leak.

Thought I'd post a few pics of my recent DIY refit of my understairs toilet. Main aim was to rip out the **** stained carpet, get rid of the yellow uneven walls, remove a dodgy tiled splashback and replace a radiator that didn't work. Total spend less than £150. Never used so much filler in my...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F58KZMK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_k0.ywbW7GAZBK Static lights ^^^^^^^^

Alternatively you could use a cladding board to stick over the top. They look very modern and cut easily to size

Which will of course have to be contracted by your solicitor.

Attaching to plywood shower cubicle. Old tiles and adhesive removed and sanded. I have some mapei shower tile adhesive (was originally going to tile). Would that be any good?

I've bought these and they are on the way. I'm after a bit of advice to the fitting of them. My shower has three walls and will have a glass door at the front. Once cut to size, would you do the rear wall first? I was thinking of cutting this panel to size, attaching the two internal corner...

Youve answered yourself.

You'll have to disconnect and reconnect the new wiring obviously. What i mean is if the terminal block is in a slightly different place in the new shower you can just pull more càble through the wall a bit more to accomodate assuming the previous install left enough slack. If youre not...

Finding something that needs absolutely no changing to pipework etc will be hard. Most have various inlet positions i.e. rear or side but even then you may need to adjust the pipes let alone screw holes. If there is slack in your wiring this will be the easiest thing to accomodate.

As above, they nearly always start to leak before too long.

Airlock on the coil.

Is there any water in the radiators?