Search results

If that black colour is indicative of the colour of the system's water then I'd suggest there are potentially bigger issues other than a leaky pipe. If that is the case then the system will need flushed otherwise there could be much more expensive issues further down the line. I'd get someone...

Using a swept bend should help, that and given the length of the vertical, fitting that into the soil first and then connecting to the horizontal may give you a extra few extra mill play, with the flexi in the pipe, to get it all to fit nicely.

Anyone replacing a PCB on a gas appliance should be gas safe registered as it will need to be tested and adjusted to ensure it's firing properly. The Easi Heat Plus C's external case is decorative, the heat engine (Burner/hex/fan/etc) is all enclosed within a separate internal combustion...

As suggested - there may be no need to change the boiler in the short term, unless it's on its last legs or parts aren't available. Would suggest you get a proper mains survey done and if you have >2.5bar and 18L/Min dynamic (must be dynamic to sustain the supply with multiple outlets running)...

As suggested - For some strange reason he thought that the boiler would need a switched live when it uses a volt free contact. Obviously didn't check with the MI, schoolboy error and an expensive mistake. It's quite simple - He's to blame, his mistake blew the board so he needs to take...

+1 for no chemicals Another DIY option would be a power/pump plunger, had relatively good success with them if a snake does not get past an elbow.

Depends on what they classify as a low pressure system, most will provide a min pressure that the kitchen tap will function properly with. If they state 0.2bar then that is more classed as low pressure, if they quote >1bar then that's into high pressure territory. As a rule of thumb any tap...

Just remember to get an experience pro in that's knows what they are doing and are very familiar with these types of systems. Get the mains surveyed at the point ogf entry and ensure that it can sustain a large unvented cylinder like that. Get them to test dynamic mains pressure and flow and...

Does the pressure/flow drop at all?

Do they know the system design temp? The latest ASHP's can run much hotter than the originals, who's design temps were around the 50Deg mark. The latest pumps using newer gases and can run >60degC. Even then though, if the system has been designed around ~ 50DegC then just run the oil boiler...

If there were indentations (necking/throating) then the fitting has been overtightened and that would be a poor install. The only parts in a compression fittings that should deform are the contact surfaces on the olive.

As suggested, It would be wise to use a proper soil pipe flexi adapter for the soil pipe to roof vent and only use one up to it's max length. As Mentioned, extend the soil pipe as normal until the flexi can then reach the vent and keep the extension vertical up to the vent.

As suggested, the forces applied on fittings when ice expands is very significant, it can split copper, crack cast iron, split rock etc. Also as suggested, a compression fitting that has been fitted correctly can hold fine under the pressure of the mains water but the olive can still be twisted...

Have you taken the small AAV that's venting the shower run off and then tried it? Put a aquare of toilet roll over the vent pipe and watch it when flushed. Waste/Soil runs can need both positive and negative venting, especially if the run is extended as it sounds like the shower seal is being...

The county doesn't matter really as long as the address is the same - My address is in 3 different counties, depending on who is sending me things. The type of install is though. Both Unvented and vented cylinders need to be notified to the LABC but an Unvented cylinder is a regulated appliance...

A little grease on any push fit allows the o-ring to be lubricated and makes the use and re-use of the fittings much easier and stops the o-ring from sticking. I carry in my box anyway, so dead easy to use.

Most recent shower issue I came across was where the shower was leaking past part of the enclosure, that was sealed but not watertight and the P5 chipboard floor under the tray was getting wet, unbeknownst to the client. The first thing they knew about it was when one of the legs of the riser...

Did something happen to the connection was it knocked/banged with something to make it leak? You could try backing the nut off half a turn and then re-tighten, it shouldn't make things worse but may be all it needs. If that doesn't work then chances are something more substantial is wrong and it...

I never ever lay a tray onto chipboard, it's the worst material ever to use in a bathroom, whoever approved that to be used in wet areas within a property must have been smoking some quality $hit. In fact anytime I fit a shower tray I remove all the chipboard within the wet space and replace it...

Yup, always wise to have some silicone grease to hand and use the lightest smear when using any push fit fitting, especially with copper. Just helps to ease the pipe past the o-ring with min effort.