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When it comes to showers and tray etc I always employ belt 'n' braces, the alternative can be a real nightmare.

You need to be very careful if air testing pipework, it can cause significant damage if a fitting or pipe goes due to the ability of air to be compressed. It isn't standard practice to use air to test water systems, would always recommend wet testing. 1.5 times the working pressure for...

No, the boiler should run until the systems up to temp and once the return temp reaches a certain level then the boiler can/will cycle as the system temp swings up and down. At least get it serviced by your local independent and get them to have a look at it before condemning it. Unfortunately...

Either or TBH - As long as the current substrate is good, clean and water tight then silicone will do. If it's a bit ropey then the corner profile provides a belt 'n' braces approach.

If the new one replaced anything but a similar designer vertical rad then it would never be better The allan key lockshield is opened anticlockwise, as suggested, but looking at the pic it seems to be fully open anyway. Also as suggested - wouldn't be surprised if it's has an internal baffle...

Probably not

Not usually a huge concern if you are talking about the screws and fittings to attach the fast fix kit, just cover with a thin layer of silicone and seal around the edge. That area doesn't tend to get a continuous soaking when showering, rather cast off from the person showering.

That would be more the preferred solution as far as the internal distribution pipework sizes and setting out would be concerned. I have to ask though - what was the problem with the flow before all of this? Were there pressure and flow tests performed to allow a before and after comparison?

Well the one they installed isn't drop tight. Unfortunately it wouldn't surprise me if the installer didn't know what a drop tight PRV is. If it's a HA can't you ask them to come back and swap it out for a drop tight valve?

All really down to how much creep the valve allows and that usually dictated by how much static pressure there is. That's why I suggested to ask for a drop tight valve. All you can do now really is keep an eye on it and see how much it rises overnight.

It's not a bad valve but it's not drop tight. They could have installed a Reliance Predator 312 for less money, especially if they got their valve from SF as the Reliance is available from the same place and that is drop tight, would just need to add a gauge

1/4 turn valves can sometimes lock up, especially on CH systems, I've found that with mag filters sometime too. I'd use an adjustable to give a little more leverage and see if they give but I'd also be prepared to replace the valves if they snap. TBH those ISO valves shouldn't really be used to...

If they haven't installed a drop tight PRV then yes they can suffer from creep. TBH if you have 7bar static then you don't want a PRV that suffers from creep, as was suggested. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/7-bar-static-pressure.652107/post-6139293

The system needs to looked at and then it needs to be understood if it actually needs a bypass, the installer should have made that determination when installing the boiler - if needed the 4000 would need a bypass circulation loop of ~ 3m, so needs to be installed in a suitable location. An...

Shouldn't matter, when replacing a boiler the system has to be taken into consideration and that includes the radiators, as it's all part of the same thing and any work to ensure the system is correct should be factored in. That would include installing an Autobypass if the system needs it.

I use nothing on a new fitting on good pipe, I just use copper olives, never had an issue. Reusing the fitting then yes but I use a wrap of tape.

As suggested, that's some kind of bypass that's really been bodged onto that pipework. If it's a new install I'd be getting the installers back and asking them to sort it, shouldn't have been left like that.

Yes but you would be advised to go through quite an extensive cleaning process. Ultimately it would probably be advisable to follow the same process to clean it out and disinfect to the same level as would be performed for a wholesome cold water cistern.

Is the flush valve a twist and remove it out of the cistern version? Do you know the make of flush valve?

If it's relatively modern Blue MDPE, it will be 20mm, 25mm or 32mm. Unfortunately they don't offer a full bore lever type valve for 25mm to 22mm, it would have to be a traditional turn down compression stop tap. Alternatively reduce the 25mm to 22mm just prior to the valve and then use a full...