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Yes that osmo oil UV stuff is as good as is available to buy in the world for this purpose. So use same stuff in thresh as door. I have exact same set up at mine and you need to re-sand and top it up every 3-4 years but that is par for the course for maintaining timber windows and doors.

£3700 is not too expensive for a quirky bespoke curved door frame like that. Try and get that in oak or something similar you’d pay over double. It’s a plastic door at the end of the day - it’s never going to feel as solid as your old hardwood door. (Although presumably it was not that solid...

No regs relevant to this quirk. If your foundations are too high for their final surface to cover over the top off they would want to devise and different finishing detail along that edge. The problem for a neat driveway edge is theirs not yours.

Would not look odd I don’t think. May even soften the look of the room.

I see this is a bit older and you might have it sorted now but yes it’s compatible- all thermostats are just on off switches so the wire just completes the loop or cuts the loop.

It’s fine to cut the boards to but up to the hearth nice and snug. And then have your 10mm gap everywhere else running under your skirtings.

On balance I would say cut a 2mm channel in the ceiling about 5-10mm deep(or whatever is needed) to let it slide up and drop back down into place. Its rare to have to remove these. The next time it needs to come off will prob be when you or someone else refits that kitchen in 15 years.

It’s fine! It’s a lots of hysterical b**locks that wd40 will damage the seal.

I’m a purest and ideally would always want to get the pipes re run properly so they are fully hidden away without any unsightly boxings being created. Assuming there is no better route to get the pipes to the radiator I would maybe batton out the whole wall with 20mm timbers, then...

I would have thought the method in the pic is simplest using some plastic feet with a frame of 5x2 tantalised joists on top. If you want to make it bigger just put more plastic feet on the ground surrounding it maybe placed on top of strategically placed slabs. Your method fine too but...

A few thoughts: 1. Thinking about the reason you are poking about the ceiling in the first place - it would be unlikely that the reason for your lights not working is dodgy cabling. It seems that you think swapping out old cabling with new will sort the problem. It’s much more likely to be a...

1. ‘suspected asbestos’ Are we actually sure it’s asbestos - have you had it tested or did a mate down the pub say it was and now it’s gospel?! No harm to send it off to a lab for a small cost to have it tested once and for all - might put the mind at rest. 2. I’ll put my neck out on this one...

Those pads will be be fine directly onto well compacted hardcore. But sure if you have old slabs kicking about you can place underneath as a bonus. No need for the decking cradles. Put in plenty dwangs to keep your frame tight and secure.

You are talking about all the right things here about building up the layers etc and I would agree the spec you describe is all stable enough. As you say, normally for a patio to last every slab gets laid on a bed of mortar on top of the mot - but if you were going to pull it up in a few years...

Presume you are referring to a drain channel between house and patio? patio is same height as house finished floor height yeh? Plastic drain channel system like hex drain or similar is the best but it does not need a run anything like that. 1:300 odd is fine. Think of it like a house...

In my view it’s a mad scheme fraught with potential problems and is just way more work! Risers are not expensive in grand scheme - 3-4£ each probs. So buy the risers, build your grid frame on top. Level it all up in situ as required with tweaks to each riser until it’s all just so...

Yep - You have understood correctly and you are the first person in history to read the instructions.

Ok - I don’t have anything to add that the specialist appliance forums online won’t know. Other than my dishwasher broke a week ago and I googled how to do a hard reset on it and hey presto. Still going strong!(for now)!

screwfix will have everything you need for that in stock same day and tools are really just a small hand saw and the solvent weld glue - the white pipe looks like 32mm but measure it - sizes are fairly standard. where is the leak actually coming from though? You sure it’s not something about...

£2500 - £4000 per square meter. Then add extra for any fitted kitchens and flooring etc. Lower end of scale if it’s a basic spec and simple construction. Source: Have had a 35m2 single storey extension priced up in the last 2 months in Sussex