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Sorry all, I meant conduit.

I need to do a couple of short runs of lighting cables along an outside wall. I'd like black trunking, which I only found in plastic. Is normal PVC trunking ok to use outside?

I opened up the compartment it's mounted to peek inside. It was a bit inconclusive given the bad view I had but it would have had to be a very slim transformer if there was one on there.

I guess if I was installing it myself I might just crack on, but since it's being done by an electrician as part of an extension under building regs I/we need to do things by the book. They're not back until 2nd fix, so I'll just send it back and spend a bit more on a proper UK sourced one.

and I'm like most people.

I just bought a bathroom cabinet off Wayfair. Instead of the shaver socket advertised it has a European 2-pin socket inside. Whilst I could just buy a 2-pin Euro to 2-pin shaver adapter, would that be "safe" and would my electrician even be permitted to install this thing into a UK bathroom?

They will. It was the air gap behind the board due to the depth of adhesive that I was wondering about. It's about the same depth as the projection of the steel from the face of the blockwork so the board is tight to the face of the steel.

An oscillating saw so close to my new bath :oops:. Is the sharp chisel is to remove it from the wall? Do I need to remove it from the bath? Will new stuff stick to the slightly older dry stuff?

Not tiled. Definitely a proper bead all the way across the hidden face, but thanks for confirming I'm not asking him to boil the ocean. Height is solely to fit in with the 600mm tiles. It's a shallow bath so there's a crawl space under it now! Besides which there are 200mm joists and no...

Yes - all that timber is to jack the bath up to 600mm. Timber makes sense to me. Balancing the bath at the tip of 120mm of threaded rod less so.

I have goal-post style steel frame in my extension. The uprights are buried in the internal blockwork with only the one flat surface standing slightly proud of the internal wall. The walls are being dot-and-dabbed with plasterboard. How should the steel columns be fire-proofed? Is it OK to just...

Another day on my renovation project, another job I want them to re-do :( With the best intentions the plumber spoke to the tiler and agreed to set the bath rim at the height of 1 full tile (600mm). The better half is only 4'10" and the kids even shorter, so it looks like they'll need a step...

Thanks for input everyone. Builder's solution is non-ideal but probably least problematic (and definitely least effort & cost for him). He's going to break out the inner skin and cavity filler to remove the step in front of the doors, then trim the exposed concrete below the doors with matching...

Seeking some insights to help me go into the difficult conversation with my builder. I have had a sand-cement(+fibres) screed floor laid in my extension, over wet UFH. The screed was levelled (+3-5mm) to the concrete slab in the original house. This resulted in a slab that's about 40-55mm...

Thanks. Your rationale makes perfect sense to me, and will certainly help if they contest my position.

Thanks both. Seems opinion is split 50:50 so far (assuming you discount my biased opinion, and therefore my tendency to give Woody's reply more credence), so I'd very much welcome a few more perspectives.

I'm having extensive building work done on my house. The contract includes a new roof and on my request additionally states "to include chimney repoint". I thought that meant raking out and redoing all the pointing. They've instead patched loose and missing pointing. I'd guesstimate about...

Nope. We're actually in the middle of major building work, and the contract includes a complete new central heating system, so right now it feels like we'll be using an extra sweater and the immersion heater for next 6 weeks.

Thanks, on it

It's slowed now to about 1 cup every 15 mins