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Definitely not magnetic... If it's aluminium I'll be happy. 60 years old and no sign of corrosion anywhere on the sheets, so seems plausible.

It is a decent shed, but it's too big for a shed, not weather proof enough for an outbuilding (workshop, gym, etc), and it's in a bad position blocking our views across open fields. Plus it'll eventually be in the way of a planned extension. Definitely not magnetic. I think the best way to get...

Was wondering if somebody could take an educated guess as to what type of metal my shed is made of. Built somewhere between 1960-1975. It's non ferrous (non magnetic at least). It's shiny if you scrape off the green paint, and is pretty malleable. To tell the truth I'm wondering if it's worth...

No switches. I'm going to wire a lamp in there and see if the main ight switch does anything. I suppose you would never have cause to turn off a clock

Thanks! If it was safe for a homeowner in the 70s (?) then I'm willing to give it a try. Dumb question... Is a clock connector a connector for a clock!?

I've just moved into a new house and it has these in the bedrooms. Can anyone identity it? I'm guessing it's for a light, in which case I'm wondering if it may be switched from the light switch. Obviously I don't have a suitable plug connector to test it out. Pretty sure they'll come out once...

Found a design guide on my LPA website which has made everything clear. They stipulate 1m gap to boundary on 1st floor side extensions. Softer wording relating to "stepping back" so maybe there's some flexibility there: Side extensions should not be more than half the width of the...

It's about 50:50 between houses which have and haven't stepped back so I concluded that was down to personal preference. I really hope the LPA haven't gotten more arsey recently and hence that all the "haves" are the more recent extensions.

Those 2 replies give me all I need, thanks. When I look at the impact the house that went right to the boundary has had on his neighbour I can see why. I guess he got lucky, and his neighbour the opposite. I was optimistically hoping for some kind of reply that suggested they were within...

I'm mulling over one day extending the first floor of my 3 bed semi out over my side garage. Several people on my road have done the same, but what's puzzling me is that all of them (bar one) stop about 3' short of the boundary with the neighbour, with the ground floor extending to the boundary...

I pushed a bit harder and the manual level went right across to the manual position, and lo and behold the pump and boiler fired up. That appears to have freed something up because it's working ok again now on its own. It's clearly on the way out though, so I'm thinking of replacing anyway so...

It seems my "decent understanding" was a "woefully incomplete understanding". Interesting that there's a microswitch in the valve. I think a jammed valve is the answer - though it appears to move freely between closed and just-short-of-mid-position, rather than being stuck permanently in mid...

2 x 2 port valves.

This feels like a job for a professional, but since it's not critical I thought I'd take time to do a little research as to what the issue might be. I thought I had a decent understanding of the CH/HW system in my house but I'm flummoxed. I have an open vented system with a h/w cylinder...

Yes there is! I can manually pull the feed pipe up to meet the tail. That didn't occur to me, thanks :) Unfortunately I've destroyed the old fibre washer trying to get it off. I thought it was good practice to replace them whenever you open a joint? Do you see a problem there? I do have...

Help please - I'm stuck half way through a job! I'm replacing the float valve in my toilet cistern. It's a bottom entry one. Although the new valve is identical to the old, the rubber washer that seals between the cistern and plastic assembly was so collapsed on the old one that the threaded...

thanks. the one to be replaced is so corroded it's beyond all recognition.

What connection do I need between the 15mm toilet inlet pipe and the plastic threaded tail of the ball valve? Is it just a (1/2") tap connector? Also does a coupler exist that has a built in isolator valve - so basically 15mm compression > isolater > (whatever needed to fit plastic thread)...

I've tried reasonable force with no luck. If the grippy bit turns too I can progress to destructive force. Otherwise I'm going to drill a couple of holes in the cap to get a purchase on it. So does anyone know with a reasonable degree of certainty that it's just the smooth domed cap that...