Search results

I forgot to ask - are your existing lamps 16W, 28W or 38W?

First question - do you know if these fittings have an electronic or a wire wound ballast? do they all have a replaceable switch starter? Also are any of these fittings combined emergency lights?

That seems like a rather blanket statement. The EICR presented by the OP seems like a reasonably decent report.

No. It will leave a cold spot above each light where condensation will form and rot your roof timbers and plasterboard.

Are you planning on setting the surface back box into the coving but actually attached to the ceiling? Can't see a problem with this apart from how neat you can make it look, but that's purely up to what you're happy with and not an electrical concern!

I would agree that 32A is fine. 40A will just scrape through with 0.5% VD to spare but not ideal as your compressor will have a reasonable inrush current upon start up

I've recessed pull switches before. A round dry lining box works well as a back box. You have Schneider (formerly GET) brand switches which have BESA standard fixing centres and will screw straight into the box. Not sure why you would need a hammer for this?

It depends on the supply type to the other containers, but it could be right that they have all been done incorrectly. 32A supply fuses and TT earthing and a local RCD does sound like the proper way to do things.

For a standard 2/3 bedroom rewire we used to get sent with 200m 2.5mm² t&e, 200m 1.0mm² t&e, 100m 1.0mm² 3c&e and 50m 10mm² earth and we’d normally have some bits left over at the end. I’d say the average domestic ring is between 60 to 80m long.

Do you need separate switches for the light and the fan or could they come on together? Could you move the switch(es) further in to the room so the strings aren’t in the path of the door?

Is the bare (may be in earth sleeving) earth wire in your shower cable a single solid core or 7 smaller strands twisted together?

The switching of your thermostat happens across terminals 3&4. What ever voltage you connect into terminal 3 will be outputted by terminal 4 when the stat is calling for heat. It is normal to have a 230V output on a standard heating system.

Yes I agree with you and I would imagine there will be high current rated WiFi switches and contactors available, but it’s not something I’ve ever really had much involvement with so I don’t know quite what is out there!

Aah I missed that. I’m still not sure if I believe them though...

I’m not aware of any type of non latching RCD other than an RCD socket so I ass-u-me that the “waterproof RCD on the garage roof” is a weather resistant socket which the door opener plugs into. Perhaps some pictures would be useful here.

I don’t see any BS or EN markings on that device so it is not suitable for use as a circuit breaker in a UK installation. I guess you could have it installed after a proper circuit breaker in a separate enclosure adjacent to your consumer unit if you desired.

I thought the garage door opener was plugged into a weather resistant active RCD socket?

I would rather the licence fee be abolished altogether and let the BBC become either a commercial or subscription based model just like every other TV channel in the world. I can’t remember the last time I watched BBC TV yet I still have to pay for them if I wish to only watch the subscription...

If the RCD is tripping purely because you have a rural mains supply which suffers frequent power cuts rather than there being a fault with your installation which is causing something to trip then all is ok. I think a few people have misunderstood what you were saying. The only difference...

Aico all the way. I’ve fitted hundreds and never had any problems with them at all.