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Yeah the ceiling is already nicely plastered and you can't really see the sag in it from the room itself, its much more obvious looking at it from the top in the loft. The ceiling joists, whilst sagged, are not rotten in any way, and they span from wall plate to wall plate and are nailed into...

Yes I realise this now, if the new joists sag it will push down on the existing ceiling. Maybe I should remove these (I still can) so that the new floor is completely independent. I just wanted to try and make the existing ceiling stronger given how badly sagged it is (2" in the middle compared...

Yeah there is a big gap to the existing ceiling although it's worth me also raising something else here then to confirm I've done the right thing. The existing ceiling is quite badly sagged/dished. A piece of timber has been hung from from the ridge beam at some point in the past to try to stop...

It's a bit annoying as the rest of my loft floor was flat as a pancake I didn't have any issues like this. But these longer 2x6s were more awkward to get right. What would they do if building a whole house and you get some variability in the timber? What if I plane it and then it settles which...

I don't know what to do now. I wanted to get the job as perfect as possible. You can't see any deviation in the floor when looking at it visually but if I put my level across it it pivots on the high spot so that it's a 3mm gap either side. But it might settle on its own?

Is it worth the hassle do you think? If I'm insulating under floors and keeping a radiator obviously that would be much simpler and cheaper. It would have been a good opportunity to do UFH if I'm getting floors up, but maybe it's not worth the faff.

So I'd be comfortable DIYing the floor reconstruction including the insulation, floor boarding system and integrating the UFH pipework in the grooves. However then Im left with a UFH pipework system not connected to anything. What would be the step of installing the appropriate manifold when...

Hi all, so this is a speculation question at the moment. I have a 3 bed semi currently on combi boiler and radiators. Solid wall 1930s. Loft well insulated and newish double glazed windows. Downstairs is suspended timber floors, uninsulated, drafty with some gaps. Rooms are hallway, kitchen...

The multi-tool is the most incorrectly named tool on the planet. It does one thing. A drill is more multitool than a multitool is.

Its all fully nailed in now, plus might not have fitted in another position anyway as I had to custom cut each length. I'll see how it is when the floor is on, its only a couple mm high so might be ok. If its difficult to get the T&G down I'll plane it a little.

Its all in now and Im pretty pleased with it. I had to use some 5mm packers and a couple of 9mm packers (used sheet plywood offcuts). I installed the joists crown up as you're supposed to. One of them is a little higher in the middle compared to the others. Do I just fit the flooring anyway...

I used the 3mm face fix ones, they are much thicker and don't bend like those ones.

I've never seen rough sawn in these dimensions. 6x2 and 8x2 c24? I got this from a builders merchant not a diy shed. You seem to be from my region of UK where do you buy from?

Given there is natural variability in joist depths for each nominal size, I would have thought they should make the joist hangers to the smaller of the range so that you can then level them up when fitting without needing shims. It's probably just under 145 on most of them but yeah there is a...

Ok just means cutting a load of 5mm slices off the 6x2. Bit awkward.

Doing this job today so hoping for quick response. I have several 6x2 joists to fit so I bought nominally 6x2 hangers. But the joists are closer to 140mm height and the hangers are more like 147mm, so the top of the hanger sticks above the top of the joist. I need the tops level/flush for...

Hi all, This is a bit of a thread duplication as Ive posted the same question in my thread on the floors & loft subsection. However its more of a building issue and there might be people here who don't look in the other forum. The overall project is that Im boarding out my loft by installing...

Hi all, so I need to do a bit more to satisfy myself that the structure is going to be secure before I start this work. What I have is a gable end wall that I need to attach the ledger beam to. This gable end wall is sitting atop a structural beam which is spanning a bay window opening in the...

@robinbanks thanks. Ive cleared the area of insulation now so I can see what I have to work with. I'll try and explain but it might be easier with a diagram. This area of the loft is above a bedroom with a large bay window. The bay window is a flat roof protrusion from the house. It is...

@robinbanks thanks again for the advice. I did the approach above, cutting 45 degrees and resting them on blocks sat on top of the wall plate. It seems to be ok, obviously time will tell but as you say there isn't much weight on it. In another section of the loft I would like to span a new beam...