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Sticking with my non-plasterboard guess.

Have you got access to it from outside? Would need to see pics..

Wow. Great to see you back fella.

Parapet / coping stones rings alarm bells…

I’ve never used the acoustic boards, as I’m a wimp and like to work with 6x3s. The most success I’ve ever had was a combo of rwa45, metal resilient bars and normal boards. Made a very noticeable difference

Cheers all

Cool, I’ll use whatever people suggest, doesn’t have to be the stuff I mentioned

Acoustic

What do you put in stud walls?

Got a 4x2 CLS stud wall to insulate, board, skim etc. Will use the rockwool acoustic/rwa45 slabs/knauf acoustic slabs. The 100mm size of these will just about manage in the 89mm space, right? While since I’ve done it. I’ll pack out with strips of plasterboard if not.

Plasterboard/cement board/asbestos. Gut feel is not plasterboard as the paper face tends to go brown over the years, and just looks more like cement/aib type thing to me. If plasterboard, inside bit might feel fairly soft/chalky compared to cement/aib. Nails were dead common until whenever...

You don’t need a vapour barrier on a party wall. Whether you need one on the external walls may be up for debate, but from what I understand/can see, if I was doing it, I’d staple one up before adding the plasterboard.

Not sure what you mean by concrete slabs and concrete studs, but if it’s a party wall, forget vapour barriers or thermal insulation and focus on dense acoustic rockwool stuff.

You could try, just make sure it’s not near a joint which could break and cause an involuntary drain down… At a push could also just remove rad and work around the pipes and make good when it does get redone

pretty unlikely, better doing it properly and re-piping it. And surely you want to be moving it out more than 2cm based on the above?

Foam gaps - yes Shave PIR - I wouldn’t, as I said above, just do it in such a way as that’s not needed

Assume that’s a timber frame with block infill? There’s loads of ways you could do it, could start again with a 2x2 frame with say 50mm PIR behind it and screwed through into the existing studs. Then another 50mm layer between the new battens. That’d be pretty easy but lose you at least 100mm...

If space, to make a noticeable gain I’d deffo go with more like 50-100mm PiR, framed/trapped to existing battens/masonry with battens then normal plasterboard rather than bothering with insulated board. Edit: just zoomed in on the photos, what the hells going on with that blockwork !

Pink fireline plasterboard? If so, use bugle headed drywall screws. Rather worrying that any screws have “fallen out” which shouldn’t happen in a million years. Maybe post a pic to confirm

Either stick/dab 9.5mm/12.5mm boards on nice and tight, or glue and bonding coat then skim, or a bonding/skim mix. How deep the artex pattern is will dictate whether you need to put bonding on it. If it’s not deep, pva and skim. If deep, bonding first. Always a slight risk of whole lot falling...