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Oh right. Yeah, blocks.

Blocks are better if it’s going to be rendered. Do you mean continue the bay down to the ground onto an existing foundation?

Repointing my entire gable end wall as existing mortar seems to be knackered in most places. Not the most interesting task but getting into a flow tackling a couple of meters at a time when I get time. Grinding out to 20mm with a thick diamond mortar rake disc and attached to a Henry hoover for...

E reg Renault 5. Was my dad’s car, instructor had a clio, the very first shape. I wore big doc marten boots at the time which were too big for the Clio’s pedals. Passed first time. Did the theory afterwards, weirdly. Think it was the first year the theory came out.

Deffo not an issue

It’s not going to be an issue in terms of load from above, the opening spans are tiny

No, not at all. All good

As said, nowt wrong with the bottom bed really but second one ups about half the thickness of the top one so possibly keep an eye on things. Looks like you’re getting weather struck type pointing, assume you’re expecting that…

As said, need vertical battens behind the horizontal ones if you’re not already aware. I’d probably leave a slight gap, might reduce chance of them expanding and cupping. (Might). I’d go for the tongue tite type torx cladding screws.

I think you’re more likely to achieve the yellow colour using yellow building sand rather than sharp and white cement. From experience I wouldn’t bother using S&C at all to joint these, and use synthetic stuff instead.

It’s holding the joists up. They’re nailed to the underside of it. As someone said above, the nails are skewed (which means at an angle) so they won’t pull out. Any good?

Deffo not a huge red flag. Some movement, but could be over decades. Cracks like that will generally appear at the weak point in corner of windows etc. Monitor or over the next few years, or rake out and repoint, or silicone it

It’s stopping the (much smaller) ceiling joists from sagging mid-span. Without it, they’re nowhere near man enough for the full wall-to wall span. Does that help?

I make it more like 11 sand, 3 cement. https://www.pavingexpert.com/calcall

In the case of your ceiling, and my answer, you can make it about £100 an hour. Irrelevant question tho as they’re not an hourly rate kind of trade.

About £300-£500, but you might find the plasterer is reluctant to skim over artex and wants to over board it instead (I’d normally do that, easier to skim and less risk). In which case double the cost ish

That’s not a single skin wall.

The outer skin may not have a lintel, particularly if it’s a 60s era house. Inner skin should, and there will be ties between them, but I’d add an outer skin lintel as part of the work. Other possibility is there is a catnic-type/eaves lintel set really far back, can’t really tell from pic

Perhaps any answers need to only comply with 2011 building regs…

Shouldn’t need acros if you’re careful The arch looks like it’ll hold if you go easy removing the course below it for the lintel, if that’s where you want the lintel. Just needs to clear the new fireback.