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Doing my lad’s bathroom at the mo, and the WC is currently piped into grey plastic soil pipe smaller than the usual size, which I am guessing (possibly incorrectly) is likely to be 82mm pipe. It’s pretty inaccessible and boxed in internally, so I’ve not been able to see any markings or measure...

Ah yeah, I was looking at it thinking the cardboard squares were still there, but it’s the imprint of them on the back face.

Nice job! How thick was the original wall though, if it could accommodate your studwork and the osb?! The ones at my lad’s place are about 60mm wide including the plasterboard faces

Yeah. But this paramount stuff isn’t the best, so belts and braces etc I also need to put additional support noggins in for a radiator etc - should be fun

Reckon I can foam new boards to it and pop screws in to the top and bottom rails? Trying not to loose much space in the room.

Anyone know what the stud spacing tends to be on paramount (egg box) partition walls? I’m planning on overboarding some, and also foaming/dabbing the new board to the wall, which will only work if there are regular (2x2) studs in them to fix through to. Cheers.

Think they’d want 50mm across the underside of the joists. Unless that’s changed again. I’d always use PIR then normal plasterboard rather than insulation backed board, easier to handle and fit separately

No, think you just go straight onto dampened down brick. Or the bag will say. It’s grey in colour (or was at the time), easy to apply (a bit fluffy like the old browning) and seems very low suction so the skim took a while to go off on top of it.

I had similar, hacked plaster above fireplace back to brick and re-did in thistle dri coat and skimmed. 10+ years on and all good

+1 to pre-gluing them before final nailing. I use the 2-part mitre bond. Instant fix - game changer and never get a non-perfect mitre. I do it for skirting external corners too.

It’s common for those blocks to have shrinkage vertical cracks like that. Not an issue

Insulation would still have an effect even with the uninsulated door, but you’ve said you’ve got no issues with the temperature in summer or winter, so not sure what to advise. A popular approach is to line the walls with 50mm+ PIR trapped to the masonry with battens and a vapour barrier and ply...

Until you know what the structural engineer wants, in terms of steel and any possible additional underpinning or anything else (being deliberately pessimistic here), it’s hard to say. For house buying budgeting I’d go 10k but probably loads less.

Yep, I would. Particularly as you’ve put sand down.

Might be EML (metal mesh) actually - that’d be more of a challenge. I’d try and make some exploratory holes from inside to get a better idea

Stitch drill it from outside (6mm ish masonry bit) but make sure you know where the studs are to avoid them. It’s a pebbledashed on render board/lath type stud wall. No masonry.

As said, the risks are that the top course of that wall (ie top 3 inches of your internal wall below ceiling) will have slightly different (worse) thermal insulation, and may also have differential expansion/contraction compared to the section below it. Whether or not that’ll ever manifest...

I took the bricks out and rebuilt it this morning, turns out the t&g floorboards had swelled and pushed that course of bricks out. Rubbish design, single skin too. Trimmed the floorboard back and rebuilt. The coursing seems fine so I don’t think it’s actually sunk, but will see. Cheers for the...

I used a water level when I did my extension, worked a treat for occasional use if you haven’t got a decent outdoor laser

3 different things going on here which I think you may be confusing with each other 1) acrow props which temporarily hold things up 2) restraint straps which I fitted and you can see in my pics, and were in your original surveyors report quote 3) vertical bay window support posts, which are...